Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
An account of the historical development of the killing process brings
out many interesting and enlightening facts, so it will be given here
briefly. One of the first substances used for killing, or degreasing the
hair of furs, was decomposing urine. Urine contains about 2% of urea which
gradually changes to salts of ammonia, and in the presence of the air,
largely to ammonium carbonate. This substance has a weak alkaline action,
but sufficiently effective to be used for killing the hair of certain
types of furs. Woolly furs, such as those derived from the various kinds
of sheep and goats, were degreased with stale urine, the skins being
washed in this, and then rinsed in water. The fat was emulsified by the
ammonium carbonate present, and could thus be easily removed. For other
furs, a stronger mixture was necessary. An example of a killing formula
used on wolf, skunk and raccoon, which were to be dyed black, is the
following:
350 grams beechwood ashes
200 grams unslaked lime
150 grams copper vitriol
100 grams litharge
60 grams salammoniac
40 grams crystallized verdigris
3.5 liters rain water
Beechwood ashes were a very important constituent of the old killing
formulas. The reason for that lies in the fact that beechwood contains
a comparatively high percentage of potassium, which occurs in the ashes
of the burned wood as potassium carbonate, or potash. The ashes alone
were frequently used, being applied in the form of a paste, which in
some instances had an advantage over a solution, in that the killing
could be limited to certain parts of the skin where it was more desired
than in other parts. By extracting the wood ashes with hot water, and
evaporating the clear solution to dryness, potash could be obtained, which
was considerably stronger than the original ashes. Next in importance
for the killing was unslaked lime. This substance was also often used by
itself, being first slaked with water, and using the milk of lime thus
formed, after cooling. Salammoniac, although a salt, and consequently
without any killing action, in contact with the beechwood ashes or the
lime in solution or paste, liberated ammonia slowly, and so also acted
as a degreasing agent. The other chemicals in the formula took no part
in the actual killing of the hair, but acted either as mordant materials
or as mineral dyes. The copper salts, in this mixture present in two
forms, as sulphate in copper vitriol, and as acetate in the verdigris,
were important constituents of the dye formula, being essential to the
production of the proper shade. These substances properly had no place
in the killing formula. The litharge, also was not a killing agent, but
in the presence of the alkaline materials of the killing mixture, it
gradually combined with the sulphur contained in the hair, forming lead
sulphide, and thereby darkening the color of the hair. In this case,
the metallic compound acted, not as a mordant, but as a mineral dye. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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