Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
The hair of furs has the peculiar quality of fixing the oxides or
hydroxides of certain metals from dilute solutions of their salts.
Advantage is taken of this property to mordant the furs, that is, to cause
a certain amount of the metallic oxide or hydroxide to be permanently
absorbed by the fibres. The term mordant comes from the French word
“mordre,” meaning to bite, it being formerly considered that the purpose
of a mordant was to attack the surface of the hair in such a way as to
permit the dye to be more easily absorbed. In fact, killing mixtures,
which were intended for this same object, used to contain the various
chemicals which have a mordanting action, in addition to the alkaline
constituents. The mordants were not applied as such, but always as
killing materials. It was later realized, however, that the mordant was
instrumental in the production of the color itself.
Mordanting may be considered as having a two-fold object: first, to help
fix the dye on the fibre in a more permanent fashion, thus rendering the
dyeings faster; and secondly, to help obtain certain shades of color, as
the various mordants produce different shades with any given dye. Some
classes of dyes can be applied to furs without the use of mordants, but
other types are taken up only in a very loose manner, being easily washed
out from the hair with water, and it is only when such dyes are brought on
to the hair in the form of a metallic compound, producing what is known as
a “lake,” that really fast dyeings are obtained with them. The substances
which are used for mordanting the hair are certain metallic compounds,
but not all metallic salts which are used in dyeing are mordants.
Sometimes such a compound is employed to develop the color of the dyeing
by after-treatment, as in the case of after-chroming, the action of the
metallic salt being directed only to the dye, and is not fixed by the
fibre as a mordant must be. In order for a metallic compound to act as a
true mordant, it must be fixed by the hair, and it must combine with the
dye, thus forming a sort of connecting link between the dye and the hair.
It is not absolutely essential that the mordant be applied first, although
this is the customary and commonest practise. There are three ways by
which the mordants can be fixed on the fur hair: First, by the absorption
of the metallic oxide or hydroxide from a solution of the mordant prior to
the dyeing; second, the mordant may be fixed on the fibre at the same time
as the dye; and third, the mordant may be applied after the fur has been
treated with the dye. The last two methods will be discussed in connection
with the dyes, as they are special cases.
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