Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
The salts of metals which are comparatively easily dissociated in water,
with the formation of insoluble oxides or hydroxides, are most applicable
as mordants for furs, and among them are compounds of aluminum, iron,
chromium, copper and tin. The constituents of the hair seem to bring
about the dissociation of the metallic salt, and the oxide or hydroxide
as the case may be, is absorbed and firmly fixed by the hair. Just what
the manner and nature of this fixation are, is still uncertain. It is
supposed that chemical combination takes place between the hair and the
metal. The course of this process may, as far as is known, be described
as follows, taking, for example, the case of chromium sulphate: In dilute
solution, this compound gradually dissociates first into its basic salts,
and finally into the hydroxide, the breaking up of the neutral salt being
induced by the presence of the fur-hair.
Cr₂(SO₄)₃ + 2H₂O = Cr₂(SO₄)₂(OH)₂ + H₂SO₄
chromium water first basic sulphuric
sulphate chrome salt acid
Cr₂(SO₄)₂(OH)₂ + 2H₂O = Cr₂(SO₄)(OH)₄ + H₂SO₄
second basic
chrome salt
Cr₂(SO₄)(OH)₄ + 2H₂O = Cr₂(OH)₆ + H₂SO₄
chromium
hydroxide
These reactions take place within the fibre, after the hair has been
impregnated with the solution of the neutral salt, and when the compound
has been rendered completely basic, in other words has reached the form of
the hydroxide, it is supposed to combine with the acid groups contained
in the hair substance, forming thus some complex, insoluble organic
compound of the metal within the hair. According to some authorities the
mordant is supposed to be present in the hair simply as the hydroxide,
being tenaciously held by some physical means. The facts seem to indicate,
however, that the metal is actually combined in some chemical way with the
hair. For, if the mordant were present as hydroxide, then on white hair it
would show the color of the hydroxide, which it does not. The same facts
obtain with regard to other metals.
In order for the hair to be properly mordanted, it is necessary that
the metallic compound which is taken up by the hair be held in such a
manner that the mordant cannot be removed by water or even dilute acids
or alkalies. Salts which dissociate too readily produce mordants which
are only superficially precipitated on the hair and subsequently come
off. Usually some substance is added to the solution of the salt to
cause slower and more even dissociation of the salt, so that the hair
substance can be quite saturated with the metallic compound before any
insoluble precipitate is formed. Dilute sulphuric acid, organic acids like
acetic and lactic, and cream of tartar are used to facilitate the uniform
absorption of the mordant salt by the hair.
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