Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
Formulas such as the above were mainly empirical, that is, they
were compounded as a result of trial of various combinations of the
constituents, without considering the nature and quantitative character
of the reactions, as long as the desired shades could be obtained. Such
dye mixtures were frequently found to yield results varying from those
expected or originally obtained, because the effectiveness of the formulas
depended upon the exact duplication in every detail, of conditions which
had given satisfactory results previously, and it was not always possible
to attain such an accurate reproduction of circumstances, especially
when the fur dyers were quite ignorant of the scientific relationships
of the materials used. So when more light had been shed on the nature
and chemical characteristics of the vegetable dye substances, formulas
like those described were no longer employed, although the essential
ingredients were the same in the new processes. Unnecessary constituents
were eliminated, and proper ones substituted where it was required, and
the quantities of the materials used were made to conform to the chemical
laws governing the reactions. Since these new formulas were based on a
rational understanding of the constituents and their reactions, it is
desirable to study the latter briefly, before further discussing the
formulas themselves.
The substances of vegetable origin used in modern fur dyeing may be
grouped into two classes, one, the tannin-containing materials, and
the other, the dyewoods proper. The most important of the tannins are
gall-nuts, sumach and chestnut extract. Cutch, which also comes under
this class, is more frequently used for the production of brown shades,
so it is grouped with the dyewoods. Among the latter are logwood, fustic,
Brazilwood, quercitron, turmeric, and several others of less significance.
1. _Tannin Materials_
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