Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
First and foremost under this heading are the nutgalls. These are
ball-shaped excrescences produced on certain plants by the punctures
of insects in depositing their eggs. There are two chief varieties, the
European, and the Chinese. The European galls are formed by the female
gall-wasp which drops an egg in the rind of young branches of certain
oaks. A swelling (the nutgall) is produced, in which the young insect
develops, and from which it finally escapes by piercing a hole through
the shell. Those galls which are not pierced have a fresh bluish or green
color, are heavy and contain most tannic acid. After the insect has gone
out, the galls are of a lighter, yellowish color, and also of inferior
quality. The best oak-galls are the Aleppo, and the Turkish or Levant
galls, containing 55–60% of tannic acid, and about 4% of gallic acid. The
Chinese galls are produced by the puncture of a plant-louse on the leaves
and leaf-stalks of a species of sumach, and not on oaks. The galls are
very light, and very rich in tannic acid, containing often as much as 80%.
For dyeing purposes, nutgalls are usually ground to a powder, and in some
instances they are even roasted first and then ground.
Sumach consists of the leaves and sometimes of the small twigs and stems
of a species of sumach plant known as the Rhus coriaria. The Sicilian
variety is the finest commercial quality, with the Virginian ranking next.
It is sold as a powder, but also in the form of the whole or crushed
leaves. The best sumach contains 15–25% of tannin. Extracts are also
manufactured, a liquid extract of 52 degrees Twaddell, which forms a dark
brown, thick paste; and a solid extract, formed by evaporating the liquid
extract to dryness.
Chestnut extract is prepared from the wood of the chestnut oak, which
contains 8–10% of tannin. The solid extract has a bright, black color,
while the liquid extract is a dark brown paste with a smell like that of
burnt sugar.
The tannins all give greyish to black shades with iron salts, and it is
this fact which renders them important for fur dyeing.
2. _Wood dyes_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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