Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
One of the most important of all the natural dye substances, especially
for the production of blacks, is logwood. The color is really a red, but
with the common mordants it forms blue, violet or black shades. Logwood,
or campeachy wood, as it is sometimes called, is the product of a large
tree growing in the West Indies, and Central and South America. When
freshly cut, the wood is practically without color, but when exposed to
the air it soon becomes a dark reddish-brown on the surface. The coloring
principle of logwood is called hematoxylin, which is a colorless substance
when pure, and is of itself incapable of dyeing; but when it is exposed
to the air, especially when moist and in the presence of some alkaline
substance, it is converted into hematein, which is the real coloring
matter of logwood. To prepare the wood for use, the logs are chipped or
rasped, the chips being heaped up and moistened with water. Fermentation
occurs, and the heaps are frequently turned to allow free access of air to
the wood, and to prevent overheating. As a result of this process, a great
part of the hematoxylin is converted to the hematein. The logwood may
be used for dyeing in this state as chips, but logwood extracts can now
be obtained of a high degree of purity and are easier to work with. The
commercial forms of the extract, are the liquid of 51 degrees Twaddell,
and the solid extract. Hematein crystals can also be obtained. All these
extracts contain mainly hematein, together with a small percentage of
hematoxylin which is converted to the former during the dyeing process.
Logwood is never used as a direct dye, but is used to form color lakes
with the various mordants, the following colors being produced:
Iron mordants give grey to black shades
Copper mordants give green-blue to black shades
Chrome mordants give blue to black shades
Aluminum mordants give violet shades
Tin mordants give purple shades
By combining several of the mordants, any desired shade of black can be
obtained, and if other dyewoods are used in conjunction with the logwood,
the range can be further increased.
Fustic, yellow-wood, or Cuba wood, as it is variously called, is obtained
from a tree also growing in the West Indies, Central and South America.
It is used either as wood chips, or as a paste extract of 51 degrees
Twaddell, and occasionally as solid extract. Fustic contains two coloring
matters, morintannic acid, possessing the characteristics of a tannin, and
which is quite soluble in water, and morin, which is rather insoluble, and
which settles out from the liquid extract. Fustic is the most important of
the yellow dyes of natural origin, and is used considerably in fur dyeing
with logwood for shading the blacks, or for producing compound shades.
With the usual mordants fustic gives the following colors:
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