If the trade is an unfamiliar one, there is first the initiation by
employment in a sweater's shop, and a few months, or even weeks, gives
all the necessary facility. Then comes the question of workroom; and
here it is only necessary to take the family room, and hire a sewing
machine, which is for rent at two shillings and sixpence, or sixty
cents, a week. To organize the establishment all that is necessary is a
baster, a machinist, a presser, and two or three women-workers, one for
button-holing, one for felling, and one for general work, carrying home,
etc. The baster may be a skilled woman; the presser is always a man, the
irons weighing from seven to eighteen pounds, and the work being of the
most exhausting description, no man being able to continue it beyond
eight or ten years at the utmost. The sweater-employer often begins by
being his own presser, or his own baster; but as business increases his
personal labor lessens. In the beginning his profits are extremely
small, prices varying so that it is impossible to make any general table
of rates. Even in the same branch of trade hardly any two persons are
employed at the same rate, and the range of ability appears to vary with
the wage paid, subdivision of labor being thus carried to its utmost
limit, and the sections of the divisions already mentioned being again
subdivided beyond further possibility. So tremendous is the competition
for work that the sweaters are played off against each other by the
contractors and sub-contractors, the result upon the workers below
being as disastrous as the general effect of the system as a whole.
As one becomes familiar with the characteristics of the East End,--and
this is only after long and persistent comings and goings in street and
alley,--it is found that there are entire streets in Whitechapel or St.
George's-in-the-East, the points where the tailoring trade seems to
focus, in which almost every house contains one, and sometimes several,
sweating establishments, managed usually by men, but now and then in the
hands of women, though only for the cheapest forms of clothing. Here,
precisely as in our own large cities, a room nine or ten feet square is
heated by a coke fire for the presser's irons, and lighted at night by
flaming gas-jets, six, eight, or even a dozen workers being crowded in
this narrow space. But such crowding is worse here than with us, for
reasons which affect also every form of cheap labor within doors.
London, under its present arrangements, is simply an enormous smoke
factory, and no quarter of its vast expanse is free from the plague of
soot and smoke, forever flying, and leaving a coating of grime on every
article owned or used, no matter how cared for. This is true for
Belgravia as for the East End, and "blacks," as the flakes of soot are
known, are eaten and drunk and breathed by everything that walks in
London streets or breathes London air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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