For it is all wrong; nor in any corner of working London, can any fact
or figures make a right of the toil that is an old, old story; so old
that there is even impatience if one tells it again. Numbers are
unknown, each one who investigates giving a different result; but it is
quite safe to say that five hundred thousand women live by the
industries named in the society's title, not one of whom has ever
received, or ever will receive, under the present system, a wage which
goes beyond bare subsistence. Here, as in New York, or any other large
city of the United States, the conditions governing the trade are much
the same. The women, untrained and unskilled in every other direction,
turn to these branches of sewing as the possibility for all, and scores
wait for any and every chance of work from manufactory or small house.
As with us, the work is chiefly put out, and necessarily at once arises
the middle-man, or a gradation of middle-men, each of whom must have his
profit, taken in every case--not from employer, but worker. The employer
fixes his rates without reference to these. He is fighting, also, for
subsistence, plus as many luxuries as can be added from the profits of
his superior power over conditions. He may be, and often is, to those
nearest him, kind, unselfish, eager for right. But the hands are
"hands," and that is all; and the middle-man, of whom the very same
statement may be true, deals with the hands with an equal obliviousness
as to their connection with bodies and souls.
The original price per dozen of the garments made may be the highest in
the market, but before the woman who works is reached there are often
five, and sometimes more, transfers. Where workers are employed on the
premises, they fare better, being paid by the piece. The minutest
divisions of labor prevail, even more than with us--a shirt passing
through many hands, the weekly wage differing for each. The "fitter,"
for instance, must be a skilled workwoman, the flatness and proper set
of the shirt front depending upon correct fitting at the neck. For this
fitting in West End houses, the fitter receives a penny a shirt, and can
in a week fit twenty dozen--this meaning a pound a week. But slack
seasons reduce the amount, so that often she earns but nine or ten
shillings, her average for the year being about fourteen. For the grades
below her the sum is proportionately less. The most thoroughly skilled
hand in either shirt-making or under-linen has been known to make as
high as twenty-eight shillings a week ($7.00), but this is phenomenal;
nor, indeed, does any such possibility remain, prices having gone down
steadily for some years. A pound a week for a woman, as has been stated
elsewhere, is regarded even by just employers as all that can be
required by the most exacting; and with this standard in mind, a fall of
three or four shillings seems a matter of slight importance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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