Like the needlewomen, the diet of the majority is meagre and poor to a
degree. The Irishwoman is much more ready to try to make the meal hot
and relishable than the Englishwoman, though even she confines herself
to cheap fish and potatoes, herring or plaice at two a penny.
A quiet, very respectable looking woman, the widow of a coster, sold
cakes of blacking and small-wares, and gave her view of this phase of
the question.
"It's cheaper, their way of doing. Oh, yes, but not so livening. I could
live cheaper on fish and potatoes than tea and bread and butter; but
that ain't it. They're more trouble, an' when you've been on your legs
all day, an' get to your bit of a home for a cup of tea, you want a bit
of rest, and you can't be cooking and fussing with fish. There's always
a neighbor to give you a jug of boiling water, if you've no time for
fire, or it's summer, and tea livens you up a bit where a herring won't.
I take mine without milk, and like it better without, and often I don't
have butter on me bread. But I get along, and, please God, I'll be able
to keep out of the 'house' to the end."
The married women fare better. The men decline to be put off with bread
and tea, and the cook-shops and cheap markets help them to what they
call good living. They buy "good block ornaments," that is, small pieces
of meat, discolored but not dirty nor tainted, which are set out for
sale on the butcher's block. Tripe and cowheel are regarded as dainties,
and there is the whole range of mysterious English preparations of
questionable meat, from sausage and polonies to saveloys and cheap pies.
Soup can be had, pea or eel, at two or three pence a pint, and beer, an
essential to most of them, is "threepence a pot [quart] in your own
jugs." A savory dinner or supper is, therefore, an easy matter, and the
English worker fares better in this respect than the American, for whom
there is much less provision in the way of cheap food and cook-shops. In
fact the last are almost unknown with us, the cheap restaurant by no
means taking their place. Even with bread and tea alone, there is a good
deal more nourishment, since English bread is never allowed to rise to
the over-lightness which appears an essential to the American buyer. The
law with English breads and cakes of whatever nature appears to be to
work in all the flour the dough can hold, and pudding must be a slab,
and bread compact and dense to satisfy the English palate. Dripping is
the substitute for butter, and the children eat the slice of bread and
dripping contentedly. Fat of any sort is in demand, the piercing rawness
of an English winter seeming to call for heating food no less than that
of the Esquimaux for its rations of blubber and tallow. But the majority
of the women leave dripping for the children, and if a scrap of butter
cannot be had, rest contented with bread and tea, and an occasional pint
of beer. For workingwomen as a class, however, there is much less
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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