Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
To this succeeds Sooleb, which we have already pointed out as the
southern limit of the marsh, according to the dimensions given
by Strabo; and where that part of the low ground, which could,
at any time, be covered with water, is too narrow to interfere
with the general character of the geographer’s lake. Sooleb has
the advantage of some tolerable pasturage, and is in consequence
occupied by flocks of sheep and goats, the property of several Arab
Shekhs, and which are chiefly tended by negro slaves, who dwell
in scattered tents with the animals confided to their charge. The
sight of a little vegetation was by no means unwelcome to us after
the dismal prospect afforded by the barren flats we had just passed;
and the dreary uncultivated wilds of Sooleb assumed, by comparison,
some appearance of interest, to which Salisbury plain or Newmarket
heath might perhaps be more justly entitled; and which a draught
or two of milk, that we were able to procure there, may probably
have in some degree contributed to heighten. This refreshment was
here more peculiarly welcome, as the water of Sooleb is too bitter,
brackish, and stinking, to be drank without the greatest disgust:
the purchase of a lamb, also, added meat to our board, which we had
not tasted since we left Mesurata. In addition to these luxuries,
we received a present from Shekh Mahommed, of a bowl of cuscusu,
and another of bazeen; and his liberality was equally extended to
the whole of our party.
We were at a loss, when the smoking dishes were ushered into
our tent, escorted by no less a person than the Dúbbah himself,
to conjecture what could possibly have occurred to occasion this
display of Arab munificence; but we soon learnt that Sooleb was the
northern limit of the district of Syrt, and that we had entered the
territory over which the Dúbbah presided; who had in consequence
taken these means of making us acquainted with the circumstance,
and of testifying his friendly disposition, together with his
magisterial importance.
After quitting Sooleb, which, we may here observe, occupies the
place assigned in modern charts to the Gulf of Zuca, we entered
again upon marshy ground, and continued our route to Maháda[8];
a tract of rising ground about forty or fifty feet above the level
of the marsh, and terminating in a declivity towards the sea, and
in perpendicular cliffs on its inland extremities. Near Maháda we
perceived the remains described in Della Cella as those of an old
castle. They are situated on a spot of rising ground surrounded by
a dangerous marsh, and can only be safely approached by following
the few narrow tracks winding along the edges of the hollows which
abound in it. This building is a _gusser_[9], or _kusser_, highly
venerated by the Arabs of the Syrt, and takes its name of Gusser
el Jebha from the son of a celebrated Marábūt, of whom Shekh
Mohammed related to us the following story.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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