Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
Such was precisely the feeling with which our party entered upon
the tract of sandy desert before them. We were glad to escape from
the continual din and bustle which had attended our preparations at
Tripoly; and the very absence of harassing workmen and tradesmen was
alone a source of real satisfaction: the coolness of the sea-breeze
was unusually refreshing, at least, we persuaded ourselves that it
was so; and the anticipation of an interesting journey was acting
very strongly upon our minds.
After quitting the cultivated grounds of Tagiura, the traveller is
left to pursue his course (in going eastward) as his experience or
his compass may direct—there being no indication whatever of any
track in the sands of the wide plain before him. As our principal
object, in this part of our journey, was to obtain a correct
delineation of the coast, we pursued our route along the margin of
the sea; which from Tagiura to Cape Sciarra takes the form of a bay,
at the head of which lies Wady Ramleh. It was late in the afternoon
of the sixth when we reached the Wady, and came up with the party
who had preceded us in advance with the camels and heavy baggage.
Wady Ramleh, or Rummel (as it is sometimes pronounced, which
signifies, in Arabic, sandy river, or sandy valley), is a small,
but constant stream of pure water, which finds its way across the
desert from the mountains to the southward. The bed of the stream
is much below the surface of the soil; and judging from its width,
and the steep banks which confine it, we should conclude that at
the periods when the freshes come down from the mountains, Wady
Ramleh may be swelled into a considerable body of water. Here our
day’s journey finished, and we pitched our tents near the stream,
making them as comfortable as a stormy night would allow of for the
friends who had accompanied us from Tripoly[7]. On the following
morning the rain fell in torrents; and as the prospect afforded by
the weather was not very inviting, we would not allow our companions
to stray farther with us from home; but took our leave of them,
as we flattered ourselves, with mutual regret, and they retraced
their steps towards Tripoly, while we continued our journey to
the eastward.
The wind had by this time increased to a violent gale, and we were
very soon wet to the skin: but although such a state may not appear
to be at all times an enviable one, it was in fact very much so
on this occasion; for the clouds of sand which would have been
hurled in our faces by the wind, had the surface of the desert
been less wet, would have proved a much greater annoyance. With
this reflection we pursued our journey very contentedly, and our
Arab friends, composing Shekh Mahommed’s escort, appeared to be
equally well satisfied; for they soon began to open the several
budgets of songs with which an Arab is never unprovided, roaring
them out to the full extent of their well-practised and powerful
lungs, till they fairly drowned the noise of the gale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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