‘Not so, unscientific! It is the grandfather of hills,—a fossil bone of
some old continent, which stood here ages before England was. And the
great earth-angel, who grinds up mountains into paint, as you do bits of
ochre, for his “Continental Sketches,” found in it the materials for a
whole dark ground-tone of coal-measures, and a few hundred miles of warm
high-lights, which we call New Red Sandstone.’
What a sea-wall they are, those Exmoor hills! Sheer upward from the sea
a thousand feet rise the downs; and as we slide and stagger lazily along
before the dying breeze, through the deep water which never leaves the
cliff, the eye ranges, almost dizzy, up some five hundred feet of rock,
dappled with every hue; from the intense dark of the tide-line, through
the warm green and brown rock-shadows, out of which the horizontal cracks
of the strata loom black, and the breeding gulls show like lingering
snow-flakes; up to the middle cliff, where delicate grey fades into pink,
pink into red, red into glowing purple; up to where the purple is
streaked with glossy ivy wreaths, and black-green yews; up to where all
the choir of colours vanishes abruptly on the mid-hill, to give place to
one yellowish-grey sheet of upward down, sweeping aloft smooth and
unbroken, except by a lonely stone, or knot of clambering sheep, and
stopped by one great rounded waving line, sharp-cut against the brilliant
blue. The sheep hang like white daisies upon the steep; and a solitary
falcon rides, a speck in air, yet far below the crest of that tall hill.
Now he sinks to the cliff edge, and hangs quivering, supported, like a
kite, by the pressure of his breast and long curved wings, against the
breeze.
There he hangs, the peregrine—a true ‘falcon gentle,’ ‘sharp-notched,
long-taloned, crooked-winged,’ whose uncles and cousins, ages since, have
struck at duck and pheasant, and sat upon the wrists of kings. And now
he is full proud of any mouse or cliff-lark; like an old Chingachgook,
last of the Mohicans, he lingers round ‘the hunting-field of his
fathers.’ So all things end.
‘The old order changeth, giving place to the new;
And God fulfils Himself in many ways,
Lest one good custom should corrupt the world.’
‘Ay, and the day may come,’ said Claude, ‘when the brows of that huge
High Vere shall be crowned with golden wheat, and every rock-ledge on
Trentishoe, like those of Petra and the Rhine, support its garden-bed of
artificial soil.’
‘And when,’ I answered, ‘the shingly sides of that great chasm of
Headon’s Mouth may be clothed with the white mulberry, and the summer
limestone-skiffs shall go back freighted with fabrics which vie with the
finest woof of Italy and Lyons.’
‘You believe, then, in the late Mrs. Whitby of Lymington?’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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