‘Seeing is believing, Claude: through laughter, and failures, and the
stupidity of half-barbarous clods, she persevered in her silk-growing,
and succeeded; and I should like to put her book into the hands of every
squire in Devon, Cornwall, and the South of Ireland.’
‘Or require them to pass an examination in it, as one more among the many
books which I intend, in my ideal kingdom, all landlords to read and
digest, before they are allowed to take possession of their estates. In
the meantime, what is that noble conical hill, which has increased my
wonder at the infinite variety of beauty which The Spirit can produce by
combinations so simple as a few grey stones and a sheet of turf?’
‘The Hangman.’
‘An ominous name. What is its history?’
‘Some sheep-stealer, they say, clambering over a wall with his booty
slung round his neck, was literally hung by the poor brute’s struggles,
and found days after on the mountain-side, a blackened corpse on one side
of the wall, with the sheep on the other, and the ravens—You may fill up
the picture for yourself.’
But, see, as we round the Hangman, what a change of scene—the
square-blocked sandstone cliffs dip suddenly under dark slate-beds,
fantastically bent and broken by primeval earthquakes. Wooded combes,
and craggy ridges of rich pasture-land, wander and slope towards a
labyrinth of bush-fringed coves, black isolated tide-rocks, and
land-locked harbours. There shines among the woods the Castle of
Watermouth, on its lovely little salt-water loch, the safest harbour on
the coast; and there is Combe-Martin, mile-long man-stye, which seven
centuries of fruitless silver-mining, and of the right (now deservedly
lost) of ‘sending a talker to the national palaver,’ have neither
cleansed nor civilized. Turn, turn thy head away, dear Claude, lest even
at this distance some foul odour taint the summer airs, and complete the
misfortune already presaged by that pale, sad face, sickening in the
burning calm! For this great sun-roasted fire-brick of the Exmoor range
is fairly burning up the breeze, and we have nothing but the tide to
drift us slowly down to Ilfracombe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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