The only sound beside the rustle of the fern before the startled deer was
the soft mysterious treble of the wind as it swept over the face of the
cliff beneath us; but the cool air was confined to the hill-tops round
beneath, from within a short distance of the shore, the sea was shrouded
in soft summer haze. The far Atlantic lay like an ocean of white wool,
out of which the Hartland Cliffs and the highest point of Lundy just
showed their black peaks. Here and there the western sun caught one
white bank of mist after another, and tinged them with glowing gold;
while nearer us long silvery zigzag tide-lines, which we could have
fancied the tracks of water-fairies, wandered away under the smoky
grey-brown shadows of the fog, and seemed to vanish hundreds of miles off
into the void of space, so completely was all notion of size or distance
destroyed by the soft gradations of the mist. Suddenly, as we stood
watching, a breeze from the eastward dived into the basin of the bay,
swept the clouds out, packed them together, rolled them over each other,
and hurled them into the air miles high in one Cordillera of snowy
mountains, sailing slowly out into the Atlantic; and behold, instead of
the chaos of mist, the whole amphitheatre of cliffs, with their gay green
woods and spots of bright red marl and cold black ironstone, and the
gleaming white sands of Braunton, and the hills of Exmoor bathed in
sunshine, so near and clear we almost fancied we could see the pink
heather-hue upon them; and the bay one vast rainbow, ten miles of
flame-colour and purple, emerald and ultramarine, flecked with a thousand
spots of flying snow. No one knows what gigantic effects of colour even
our temperate zone can show, till they have been in Devonshire and
Cornwall; and last, but not least, in Ireland—the Emerald Isle, in truth.
No stay-at-home knows the colour of the sea till he has seen the West of
England; and no one, either stay-at-home or traveller, I suspect, knows
what the colour of a green field can be till he has seen it among the
magic smiles and tears of an Irish summer shower in county Down.
Down we wandered from our height through ‘trim walks and alleys green,’
where the arbutus and gumcistus fringed the cliffs, and through the deep
glades of the park, towards the delicious little cove which bounds it.—A
deep crack in the wooded hills, an old mill half buried in rocks and
flowers, a stream tinkling on from one rock-basin to another towards the
beach, a sandy lawn gay with sea-side flowers over which wild boys and
bare-footed girls were driving their ponies with panniers full of sand,
and as they rattled back to the beach for a fresh load, standing upright
on the backs of their steeds, with one foot in each pannier, at full trot
over rocks and stones where a landsman would find it difficult to walk on
his own legs.
Enraptured with the place and people, Claude pulled out his sketch-book
and sat down.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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