To form a conception of these famous Landes, it is only necessary to run
down by the South-Western Railway, through the moors of Woking or Ascot;
spread them out flat, and multiply them to seeming infinity. The same
sea of brown heather, broken only by the same dark pignadas, or fir
plantations, extends for nigh a hundred miles; and when the traveller
northward has lost sight, first of the Spanish mountains, and then of the
Pyrenean snows, he seems to be rushing along a brown ocean, without wave
or shore. Only, instead of the three heaths of Surrey and Hants (the
same species as those of Scotland), larger and richer southern heaths
cover the grey sands; and notably the delicate upright spires of the
bruyère, or _Erica scoparia_, which grows full six feet high, and
furnishes from its roots those ‘bruyère’ pipes, which British shopkeepers
have rechristened ‘briar-roots.’ Instead, again, of the Scotch firs of
Ascot, the pines are all pinasters (miscalled _P. maritima_). Each has
the same bent stem, carrying at top, long, ragged, scanty, leaf-tufts,
instead of the straight stem and dense short foliage of the sturdier
Scotchman; and down each stem runs a long, fresh scar, and at the bottom
(in spring at least), hangs a lip of tin, and a neat earthen pipkin, into
which distils turpentine as clear as glass. The trees have mostly been
planted within the last fifty years, to keep the drifting sands from
being blown away. As timber they are about as valuable as those Jersey
cow-cabbage stalks, of which the curious will at times make
walking-sticks: but as producers of turpentine they have their use, and
give employment to the sad, stunted, ill-fed folk, unhealthy for want of
water, and barbarous from utter loneliness, whose only employment, in old
times, was the keeping ragged flocks about the moors. Few and far
between the natives may be seen from the railway, seemingly hung high in
air, till on nearer approach you find them to be stalking along on
stilts, or standing knitting on the same, a sheepskin over their
shoulders, an umbrella strapped to their side, and, stuck into the small
of the back, a long crutch, which serves, when resting, as a third wooden
leg.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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