So run on the Landes, mile after mile, station after station, varied only
by an occasional stunted cork tree, or a starved field of barley or
maize. But the railroad is bringing to them, as elsewhere, labour,
civilization, agricultural improvement. Pretty villages, orchards,
gardens, are springing up round the lonely ‘gares.’ The late Emperor
helped forward, it is said, new pine plantations, and sundry schemes for
reclaiming the waste. Arcachon, on a pine-fringed lagoon of the
Atlantic, has great artificial ponds for oyster breeding, and is rising
into a gay watering-place, with a distinguished scientific society. Nay,
more: it saw a few years since an international exposition of fish, and
fish-culture, and fishing-tackle, and all things connected with the
fisheries, not only of Europe, but of America likewise. Heaven speed the
plan; and restore thereby oysters to our shores, and shad and salmon to
the rivers both of Western Europe and Eastern North America.
As for the cause of the Landes, it may be easily divined, by the help of
a map and of common sense.
The Gironde and the Adour carry to the sea the drainage of nearly a third
of France, including almost all the rain which falls on the north side of
the Pyrenees. What has become of all the sand and mud which has been
swept in the course of ages down their channels? What has become—a very
small part, be it recollected, of the whole amount—of all the rock which
has been removed by rain and thunder, frost and snow, in the process of
scooping out the deep valleys of the Pyrenees? Out of that one crack,
which men call the Val d’Ossau, stone has been swept enough to form a
considerable island. Where is it all? In these Landes. Carried down
year by year to the Atlantic, it has been driven back again, year by
year, by the fierce gales of the Bay of Biscay, and rolled up into banks
and dunes of loose sand, till it has filled up what was once a broad
estuary, 140 miles across and perhaps 70 miles in depth. Upheaved it may
have been also, slowly, from the sea, for recent sea-shells are found as
far inland as Dax; and thus the whole upper end of the Bay of Biscay has
transformed itself during the lapse of, it may be, countless ages, into a
desolate wilderness.
It is at Dax that we leave the main line, and instead of running north
for Bordeaux and the land of clarets, turn south-east to Orthez and Pau,
and the Gaves, and the Pyrenees.
And now we pass through ragged uplands, woody and moorish, with the long
yellow maize-stalks of last year’s crop rotting in the swampy glens. For
the ‘petite culture,’ whatever be its advantages, gives no capital or
power of combined action for draining wet lands; and the valleys of
Gascony and Bearn in the south, as well as great sheets of the Pas de
Calais in the north, are in a waterlogged state, equally shocking to the
eye of a British farmer, and injurious to the health and to the crops of
the peasants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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