There _used_ to be only half an inn here; there are _now_ five hotels, with a beer-garden, and inevitable casino. Dancing every night. Like to watch fair, fat, sentimental German waltzing solemnly. Elderly Darby of Albion, too, capering the newest shuffles and reverses, would surprise his wife Joan at home. "Darby is devoted to climbing, and I was glad to let him return to the primitive little place I remember on our honeymoon." That is what _she_ thinks. _Climbing!_ Not a bit of it! Most here, when fagged out with shopping, take guide and porter up the "Shamhorn." There's a "Shamhorn" album now wherein proud mountaineers exhibit flights of fancy in their records that one could never guess from their countenances. At _table d'hôte_ not a few of SVENGALI'S opinion, that "only the dirty want to wash." But the water is superb! so are the Alps. Yet am I Oberlanded, and must go lower to feel higher. * * * * * OUR OWN TORRIST IN NORTH DEVON. [Illustration] _Mem. at Ilfracombe._--Capital boating and fishing here. Likewise plenty of steamering. Lovely scenery everywhere about in this neighbourhood for pedestrians, equestrians, "carriage-folk," and donkey-chaise people. _Special mem. for equestrians and drivers_;--"_Hire on the spot_," which sounds like some direction at billiards, but is meant for advice to riders and drivers. Picturesque caves on coast to visit in rowing-boat, or in canoe which you can paddle yourself. With fair weather, and good waterproof, you can't be dull at Ilfracombe. * * * * * _Mem._--"For outward application only." Before starting for a long and genuinely country walk, put in your pocket a waterproof sponge wrapper. It occupies no space, and, like an objectionable person in a small party, _is always there to be sat upon_. Strong crook-handled stick with pointed ferrule indispensable. * * * * * Were Ilfracombe a French watering-place, how delightful it could be made. Imagine the restaurants, the _déjeuners à la fourchette_, under cover in bad weather, out in the open air in fine; the good bands; the casino; the _établissement_, with excellent reading and writing-rooms, billiard tables, library, first-rate concerts and fair dramatic performances; _petits chevaux_, _petits soupers al fresco_, and every possible opportunity afforded for enjoying life _en pleine air_. * * * * * _À propos_ of restaurants, there is a splendid chance for starting a first-rate French hotel in Ilfracombe, with well-devised gardens, and at such a superb height, that while it would be open to all the most refreshing breezes--for it is impossible to feel the full benefit of these in the valley--yet would it be warm and cosy during the coldest months, of which, in an ordinary year with well-regulated seasons, there cannot be many. * * * * *