Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the CampagnaForbes, S. Russell
History
Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna
Forbes, S. Russell
Art -- Rome; Rome (Italy) -- Guidebooks; Rome -- Antiquities
The church is open all day on the 26th of December, being the saint's
day. _On other days, ring the bell at the door on the right._ It is
133 feet in diameter. The outer circle consists of thirty-six columns,
and the inner of twenty. There was originally another outer circle:
this was destroyed, and the space between the columns of the second
circle, present outer, filled in to make the walls of the church. In
the centre two Corinthian columns support a cross wall. The tabernacle
contains the relics of S. Stephen. The frescoes by Pomarancio on the
walls, representing martyrdoms, are simply disgusting. In the
vestibule is an ancient episcopal chair, from which S. Gregory read
his fourth homily.
_Left from the church, and left again, we enter the_ PIAZZA DI
NAVICELLA.
_In the piazza_ is a small marble ship, placed here by Leo X., near
where it was found, this place having been the camp of the sailors.
_The church opposite is that of_
S. MARIA DELLA NAVICELLA,
or S. Maria in Dominica, only open on the second Sunday in Lent. It
was restored by Leo X. from designs by Raphael. The Doric portico is
by Michael Angelo. It has eighteen fine columns of gray granite. The
mosaics in the tribune are of the ninth century. The frieze over the
windows of the nave is by Giulio Romano and Pierino.
_To the right of the church_ are remains of the Monastery of
S. TOMMASO IN FORMIS,
founded by Innocent III. as the headquarters of the Trinitarians or
Redemptorists, whose mission was to rescue blacks and whites from
slavery. The mosaic by Cosmati, A.D. 1260, is the coat of arms of the
order. Just beyond is a Gothic arch, part of their buildings. _Beyond
this_ the arch spanning the road is the
ARCH OF DOLABELLA AND SILANUS.
Built of travertine, and erected, as the inscription informs us, by
the above consuls, A.D. 10. It was used by Nero to support the
aqueduct to his reservoir. Here is the hermitage of S. Giovanni di
Matha, 1213, who founded the Redemptorists.
_Through the arch on the left is the entrance to_
THE VILLA CŒLIMONTANA,
the residence of Baron Hoffmann, who kindly admits visitors on their
leaving their cards at the iron gate. Many fragments of antiquity are
spread about the grounds, from which there are some fine views.
Remains have been found of a Roman fire-station of the fifth cohort of
Vigili, whose names are on the pedestals dedicated by them to Marcus
Aurelius.
THE OBELISK
was erected by Duke Mattei, but only a very small part of it is
Egyptian. The fragment was found in making the present sloping way up
to the Capitol, and presented by the magistrates to the duke. It is
the only one not re-erected by a pope. It is said that when the
architect was directing its elevation, he forgot to take his hand off
the pedestal, and that the block was lowered on his hand, which was
amputated, the hand being left between the blocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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