Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
Early on the morning of the following day (Sunday) I visited the
churches. They were filled, as usual, with the fairer part of creation.
In walking through the streets, after breakfast, great preparations were
observed to be making for a cock-fight, which was to take place at
twelve o’clock. This, next to a bull-bait, is one of the most exciting
scenes that can present itself to a Mexican populace. The gentlemen
keepers were already wending their way to the pits, which are always
kept in readiness for such amusements. The patricians of the city, the
heads of the government, officers of the army, scions of the church,
citizens, and the poor Indian, were all present, mixed up,
helter-skelter; and bets, from six and a quarter cents to three hundred
dollars, were freely offered and as readily accepted. There was much
excitement, but no quarrelling or harsh words. The cock of the
_Secretary of War_ was beaten.
The latter part of the day was spent on the Square, where there were
about three hundred Yucatan soldiers collected for drill. They were
dressed in a shirt and short trousers, with the former article upon the
outside, and a broad-brimmed palm-leaf sombrero. Their military
equipments were in good keeping. They were officered principally by
boys, who had received nothing more than a common school education, wore
jacket and trousers, and used canes as substitutes for swords. During
the drill a slight shower commenced, which dampened the martial
propensities of our heroes with marvellous rapidity. Whatever might have
been their preferences to a fight, they certainly preferred to drill
another day.
I embraced an opportunity, which was now offered me, of visiting the
bishop at his palace. Entering a large doorway in the centre of the
court-yard, and ascending a flight of stone steps to a range of
corridors, I was met by a servant, who conducted me into an ante-room.
My name was taken in; and, in a few seconds, I was received by the
bishop, in an adjoining room, with a most cordial welcome. He has a fine
head. His person is tall, rather robust, and looked the bishop to the
life. He was clad in a blue silk gown, and a cap of the same material,
resting upon the crown of his head; and embellished with a massy gold
chain around his neck, appended to which was a cross. He conversed
respecting citizens and residents of the United States with whom he was
acquainted, either personally or by reputation; and spoke of the
shipwreck of our national vessel, the schooner Porpoise, on board of
which he was a passenger, while on her way to Vera Cruz. He expressed
himself in the highest terms of commendation of the officers, and gave a
glowing account of the perilous voyage. He showed his library with a
great politeness, and a becoming pride; but it struck me as being quite
limited for one in his position. He expressed himself liberally; and no
doubt, as his countenance and actions indicated, he is a right worthy
man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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