Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
We arrived at Ticul after a fatiguing ride, under a hot sun, at half
past two o’clock in the afternoon, on Saturday, the 19th of February.
Our coming was anticipated, and good apartments were prepared for us in
the convent, where we were comfortably accommodated, and fully resolved
to remain until we had become thoroughly recruited. José was about worn
out, and the horses’ feet were in a sad condition. My trousers were
torn, my boots were cut up, and my altogether ruinous condition was more
in sympathy with the country which I was visiting, than accorded with my
taste or my comfort. In this condition, I thought it would be no more
than an act of prudence to lie by for a few days to repair damages. I
amused myself meantime in strolling about the town, which I found
decidedly pleasant. It had a life and activity about it that I had not
before seen for a long time. I saw the sun set this evening behind the
Cordilleras; it was a beautiful and imposing sight.
This town is large and well built, though not very compact; enough so,
however, to make it a very desirable place of residence. It is town and
country, beautifully intermingled. It has a fine open square, church,
and market-place, and several stores.
The church, occupying one corner of the square, is built in the form of
a cross, and has a well-proportioned dome to set it off. The mass of
devotees that assemble here daily are decently dressed and good-looking.
The curate is a middle-aged man, who has read much, and figured
considerably in the late political revolutions of the province; and is,
probably, more conversant with the history of his country than any man
in it. Some of the most interesting ruins of the country are within his
curacy, and he was the only person I encountered in the country who had
devoted much time to an examination of them. He received me very
cordially, and was exceedingly kind and attentive during my stay.
The market-place is small; but it is well supplied, and kept clean. It
was rather a strange sight to me to see cattle butchered in the open
streets and public thoroughfares of the town, as is the custom here.
This town enjoys a notoriety for its pretty Mestizas, or half-breed
Indian women; which, as far as I am able to judge, it justly deserves.
They are well formed, and have regular features and brunette
complexions, which are in fine contrast with their long black hair and
simple loose dress. Their dresses are always neat, and hang from the
shoulders without being girded at the waist. They are trimmed off by the
fair hands of the wearers with ornamental borders, &c., &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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