Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The convent in the rear of, and immediately adjoining the church, is an
immense pile of stone, built in 1624, and was formerly inhabited by
monks of the order of St. Francis. The only habitable part of this vast
structure, at present, is occupied by the curate, the padre, and myself.
A suite of three rooms were given to me; but, in my humble way, I made
two suffice. Its blackened walls, its spacious halls and corridors,
dilapidated casements, its numerous squares and gardens, all going to
ruin, presented the same melancholy picture that is to be seen in all
the principal towns in the province.
A large portion of the inhabitants are Mestizos, who are orderly and
well to do in the world. Their houses, in the borders of the town, are
comfortable; and the wide-spreading palm, growing near, gives to them
quite a picturesque appearance. They manufacture hats for exportation,
and earthenware for home use.
The health of the town is good. This may be attributed not only to the
climate, but to the uniform temperance of these people, both in eating
and drinking.
The roads to and from the principal towns are kept in excellent order.
Portions of them, in the immediate vicinity, with the low stone walls at
the sides, covered with vegetation, resemble those of England.
In the adjoining districts, there are several large sugar plantations.
Near the town of Tekax, considerable attention is paid to the
cultivation of sugar, which is raised entirely for domestic consumption.
The ruins of Ichmul are situated about a half league north of the town
of Ticul. The padre, with a few friends, accompanied me to visit them.
What was my surprise, on arriving at this place, to observe a succession
of mounds, or tumuli, extending many miles around, in every direction,
as far as the eye could reach—the sepulchres, perhaps, of millions! who,
in their turn, possibly, have looked upon similar appearances, that
exist no longer, with the same thoughts as we give utterance to in
beholding these! The grounds are now covered with grass and trees—a
range for cattle! Some of these mounds were forty feet high. Several of
them had been opened by the direction and under the superintendence of
the curate, and within were found rooms, and skeletons deposited in a
sitting posture, with small pots at their feet, which was the position
in which the ancient Mexicans were in the habit of burying their dead.
The walls and ceilings were quite perfect. Large pieces of hewn stone
and pillars were lying scattered around these places, affording ground
for the presumption that they were formerly portions of a once great and
populous city.
On our return with the padre, we dismounted at his house; our horses
were led through it, and myself into it, where, seated in a hammock, I
partook of refreshments, and spent a very pleasant hour with my kind
cicerone. I then took my leave, returned to the convent, rode through
the long hall, and dismounted at my parlor door.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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