Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Under the comtes Provence again flourished, and a brilliant civilization
was born in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries which gave almost a new
literature and a new art to those glorious gems of the French Crown. The
school of Romanesque church-building of Provence, of which the most
entrancing examples are still to be seen at Aix, Arles, St. Gilles, and
Cavaillon, spread throughout Languedoc and Dauphiné, and gave an impetus
to a style of church-building which was the highest form of artistic
expression.
It was at this time, too, that Provençal literature took on that
expressive form which set the fashion for the court versifiers of the
day, the troubadours and the _trouvères_ of which the old French
chronicles are so full. The speech of the Provençal troubadours was so
polished and light that it lent itself readily to verses and dialogues
which, for their motives, mostly touched on love and marriage. Avignon,
Aix, and Les Baux were very “courts of love,” presided over--said a
chivalrous French writer--by ladies of renown, who elaborated a code of
gallantry and the _droits de la femme_ which were certainly in advance
of their time.
The reign of René II. of Sicily and Anjou, called “_le bon Roi René_,”
brought all this love of letters to the highest conceivable plane and
constituted an era hitherto unapproached,--as marked, indeed, and as
brilliant, as the Renaissance itself.
The troubadours and the “courts of love” have gone for ever from
Provence, and there is only the carnival celebrations of Nice and Cannes
and the other Riviera cities to take their place. These festivities are
poor enough apologies for the splendid pageants which formerly held
forth at Marseilles and Aix, where the titled dignitary of the
celebration was known as the “Prince d’Amour,” or at Aubagne, Toulon, or
St. Tropez, where he was known as the “Capitaine de Ville.”
The carnival celebrations of to-day are all right in their way, perhaps,
but their spirit is not the same. What have flower-dressed automobiles
and hare and tortoise gymkanas got to do with romance anyway?
The pages of history are full of references to the Provence of the
middle ages. Louis XI. annexed the province to the Crown in 1481, but
Aix remained the capital, and this city was given a parliament of its
own by Louis XII. The dignity was not appreciated by the inhabitants,
for the parliamentary benches were filled with the nobility, who, as was
the custom of the time, sought to oppress their inferiors. As a result
there developed a local saying that the three plagues of Provence were
its parliament; its raging river, the stony-bedded Durance; and the
“mistral,” the cold north wind that blows with severe regularity for
three, six, or nine days, throughout the Rhône valley.
Charles V. invaded Provence in 1536, and the League and the Fronde were
disturbing influences here as elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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