Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Richelieu gave the bishopric of this proud city to Antoine Godeau, who,
it seems, possessed hardly any qualifications for the post except family
influence and the flatteries he had showered upon the cardinal. Because
of his small stature this prelate became known as the “Nain de Julie,”
but in time he came to develop a real aptitude for his calling, and
governed his diocese with care, prudence, and judgment, and became an
Académicien through having written a history of the Church in France
during the eighteenth century.
The ecclesiastical monuments of Grasse are not many or as beautiful as
might be expected of a bishop’s seat, and at the Revolution the see was
suppressed. The old-time cathedral, as it exists to-day, is an
ungracious thing, with a _perron_, a sort of horseshoe staircase, before
it, built by Vauban, who, judging from this work, was far more of a
success as a fortress-builder than as a designer of churches.
Formerly Grasse was the seat of the Préfecture of the Département du
Var, but, with the inclusion of the Comté de Nice within the limits of
France, the honour was given to Draguignan, while that of the newly made
Département des Alpes-Maritimes was given to Nice, and Grasse became
simply a _sous-préfecture_. Shorn of its official dignities, and never
having arisen to the notoriety of being a fashionable resort, Grasse
“buckled down to business,” as one might say, and acquired a preëminence
in the manufacture of perfumes, candied fruits, and _confitures_
unequalled elsewhere in the south of France. The manufacture of soaps,
wax, oil products, and candles also form a considerable industry, and
the general aspect of Grasse is quite as prosperous, indeed more so,
than if it were dependent on the butterfly tourists of the coast towns.
The streets of the town rise and fall in bewildering fashion. They are
badly laid out, in many cases, and dark and gloomy, but they are
nevertheless picturesque to a high degree; a sort of négligé
picturesqueness, which does not necessarily mean dirty or squalid. There
are no remarkable architectural splendours in all the town, and there
are none of those archæological surprises such as one comes upon at Aix
or Fréjus.
Grasse has a fine library, containing numerous rare manuscripts and
deeds and the archives of the ancient Abbey of Lerins. In the Hôpital is
an early work of Rubens, which ranks as one of the world’s great art
treasures, and there is a further interest in the city for art-lovers
from the fact that it was the birthplace of Fragonard, to whom a fine
bust in marble has been erected in the Jardin Publique.
[Illustration: _Flower Market, Grasse_]
As before mentioned, the height above is the chief point of interest at
Grasse. It culminates in the significantly named promenade known as
the “_Jeu de Ballon_.” A sea of tree-tops surges about one on all sides,
with here and there a glimpse of the red roof-tops of the town below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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