Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Between the town and the sea is an immense rocky wall known as Les
Ribbes, with a picturesque cascade rippling down its flank. From its
apex Napoleon, escaping from Elba, arrested his flight long enough to
turn and--in the words of his best-known historian--“_contemplate the
immense panorama which unrolled before his eyes, and salute for the last
time the Mediterranean and the mountains of La Corse, which he was never
again to see_.”
The assertion “_voir La Corse_,” in the original, was not a figure of
speech, for under certain conditions of wind and weather the same is
possible to-day.
A half a dozen kilometres to the eastward of Grasse the highroad crosses
the river Loup, and one sees a semicircular town before him known as
Villeneuve-Loubet. The town has hotels and all the faint echoes of the
watering-places of the coast. This is a pity, for it is delightful, or
was, before all this up-to-dateness came. Its château, still proudly
rearing its head above the town, was built in the twelfth century by
the Comtes de Provence.
The primitive town was called Loubet, a corruption of the name of the
river which bathes its walls. Before even the days of the occupation of
the Comtes de Provence, as early as the seventh century, there was a
monastery here known by the name of Notre Dame la Dorée, of which scanty
remains are visible even to-day. Owing to various Mussulman incursions,
the occupants of the monastery were forced to flee to the protection of
the château, and soon the “_Ville-neuve_” was created, ultimately
forming the hyphenated name by which the place is known to-day.
Still onward, on the road to Nice, is Cagnes, a sort of economical
overflow from the more aristocratic resort, with few advantages to-day
as an abiding-place, and most of the disadvantages of the larger city.
There are tooting trams, automobile garages, and shops for the sale of
many of the minor wants of life, which in former times one had to walk
the ten or a dozen kilometres into Nice to get. The automobile is a very
good thing for touring, but, as a perambulator in which to “run down to
the village,” it is much overrated and a confirmed nuisance to every
one; and Cannes suffers from this more than any other place in France,
unless it be Giverny on the Seine, the most overautomobiled town in the
world,--one to every score of inhabitants.
Once Cagnes bid fair to become an artists’ resort, but it became overrun
with “tea and toast” tourists, and so it just missed becoming a Pont
Aven or a Barbizon. For all that, it is a picturesque enough place
to-day; indeed, it is delightful, and if it were not for the automobiles
everywhere about, and that awful tram, it would be even more so.
However, its little artists’ hotel was, and is, able to make up for a
good deal that is otherwise lacking, and the sawmills, brick-works, and
distilleries of the neighbourhood are not offensive enough to take away
all of its sylvan charm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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