Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
The main fabric of the church, and its interior, are ordinary enough,
and are in no way different from hundreds of a similar type elsewhere;
but in the cloister, to the rear, architectural excellence again rises
to a superlative height. Here, in a justly proportioned quadrangle, are
to be seen four distinct periods and styles of architectural decoration,
from the round-headed arches of the colonnade on one side, up through
the primitive Gothic on the second, the later and more florid variety on
the third, and finally the debasement in Renaissance forms and outlines
on the fourth. The effect is most interesting and curious both to the
student of architectural art and to the lover of old churches, and is
certainly unfamiliar enough in its arrangement to warrant hazarding the
opinion that it is unique among the celebrated mediæval cloisters still
existing.
Immediately behind the cathedral are the remains of the theatre and the
arena. Less well preserved than that at Orange, the theatre of the Arles
of the Romans, a mere ruined waste to-day, gives every indication of
having been one of the most important works of its kind in Gaul,
although, judging from its present admirable state of preservation, that
of Orange was the peer of its class.
To-day there are but a scattered lot of tumbled-about remains, much of
the structure having gone to build up other edifices in the town, before
the days when proper guardianship was given to such chronicles in stone.
A great _porte_ still exists, some arcades, two lone, staring
columns,--still bearing their delicately sculptured capitals,--and
numerous ranges of rising _banquettes_.
This old _théâtre romain_ must have been ornamented with a lavish
disregard for expense, for it was in the ruins here that the celebrated
Venus d’Arles was discovered in 1651, and given to Louis XIV. in 1683.
The arena is much better preserved than the theatre. It is a splendid
and colossal monument, surpassing any other of its kind outside of Rome.
Its history is very full and complete, and writers of the olden time
have recounted many odious combats and many spectacles wherein ferocious
beasts and gladiators played a part. To-day bull-fights, with something
of an approach to the splendour of the Spanish variety, furnish the
bloodthirsty of Arles with their amusement. There is this advantage in
witnessing the sport at Arles: one sees it amid a mediæval stage setting
that is lacking in Spain.
It is in this arena that troops of wild beasts, brought from all parts
of the empire, tore into pieces the poor unfortunates who were held
captive in the prisons beneath the galleries. These dungeons are shown
to-day, with much bloodthirsty recital, by the very painstaking
guardian, who, for an appropriate, though small, fee, searches out the
keys and opens the gateway to this imposing enclosure, where formerly as
many as twenty-five thousand persons assemble to witness the cruel
sacrifices.
[Illustration: _A Young Arlesienne_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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