Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
There is a delicate fancy evolved from the connection of Martigues’s
three sister faubourgs or _quartiers_. In the old days each had a
separate entity and government, and each had a flag of its own; that of
Jonquières was blue; the Ile, white; and Ferrières, red. There was an
intense rivalry between the inhabitants of the three faubourgs; a
rivalry which led to the beating of each other with oars and
fishing-tackle, and other boisterous horse-play whenever they met one
another in the canals or on the wharves. The warring factions of the
three _quartiers_ of Martigues, however, finally came to an
understanding whereby the blue, white, and red banners of Jonquières,
the Ile and Ferrières were united in one general flag. The adoption of
the tricolour by the French nation was thus antedated, curiously enough,
by two hundred years, and the tricolour of France may be considered a
Martigues institution.
In the Quartier de Ferrières are moored the _tartanes_ and
_balancelles_, those great white-winged, lateen-rigged craft which are
the natural component of a Mediterranean scene. Those hailing from
Martigues are the aristocrats of their class, usually gaudily painted
and flying high at the masthead a red and yellow striped pennant
distinctive of their home port.
In the fish-market of Martigues the traveller from the north will
probably make his first acquaintance with the tunny-fish or _thon_ of
the Mediterranean. He is something like the tarpon of the Mexican Gulf,
and is a gamy sort of a fellow, or would be if one ever got him on the
end of a line, which, however, is not the manner of taking him. He is
caught by the gills in great nets of cord, as thick and heavy as a
clothes-line, scores and hundreds at a time, and it takes the strength
of many boatloads of men to draw the nets.
The _thon_ is the most unfishlike fish that one ever cast eyes upon. He
looks like a cross between a porpoise and a mackerel in shape, and is
the size of the former. It is the most beautifully modelled fish
imaginable; round and plump, with smoothly fashioned head and tail, it
looks as if it were expressly designed to slip rapidly through the
water, which in reality it does at an astonishing rate. Its proportions
are not graceful or delicately fashioned at all; they are rather clumsy;
but it is perfectly smooth and scaleless, and looks, and feels too, as
if it were made of hard rubber.
In short the _thon_ is the most unemotional-looking thing in the whole
fish and animal world, with no more realism to it than if it were
whittled out of a log of wood and covered with stove-polish. Caught,
killed, and cured (by being cut into cubes and packed in oil in little
tins), the _thon_ forms a great delicacy among the assortment of
_hors-d’œuvres_ which the Paris and Marseilles restaurant-keepers put
before one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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