Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
If, like the Japanese, the inhabitant of the _cabanon_ likes to carry
his household gods about with him, why, then it is quite another thing,
and there is some justice in the claim of its occupant that he is
enjoying life _en villégiature_.
“_Le cabanon: c’est unique et affreux!_” said Taine, and, though he was
a great grumbler when it came to travel talk, and the above is an unfair
criticism of a most intolerant kind, the _cabanon_ really is ludicrous,
though often picturesque.
The simple stone hut, with the stones themselves roughly covered with
pink or blue stucco, sits, always, facing the south. Before it is a tiny
terrace and, since there are often no windows, the general housekeeping
is done under an awning, or a lean-to, or a “_tonnelle_.”
It is not a wholly unlovely thing, a _cabanon_, but it gets the full
benefit of the glaring sunlight on its crude outlines, and, though
sylvan in its surroundings, it is seldom cool or shady, as a country
house, of whatever proportions or dimensions, ought to be.
Some figures concerning the Étang de Berre are an inevitable outcome of
a close observation, so the following are given and vouched for as
correct. It is large enough to shelter all the commercial fleet of the
Mediterranean and all the French navy as well. For an area of over three
thousand hectares, there is a depth of water closely approximating forty
feet. Between the Étang and the Mediterranean are the Montagnes de
l’Estaque, which for a length of eight kilometres range in height from
three hundred to fifteen hundred feet, and would form almost an
impenetrable barrier to a fleet which might attack the ships of commerce
or war which one day may take shelter in the Étang de Berre. This, if
the naval powers-that-be have their way, will some day come to pass. All
this is a prophecy, of course, but Elisée Reclus has said that the
non-utilization of the Étang de Berre was a _scandale économique_, which
doubtless it is.
In spite of the name “Étang,” the “Petite Mer de Berre” is a veritable
inland harbour or _rade_, closed against all outside attack by its
narrow entrance through the elongated Étang de Caronte. That its
strategic value to France is fully recognized is evident from the fact
that frequently it is overrun by a practising torpedo-boat fleet. What
its future may be, and that of the delightful little towns and cities on
its shores, is not very clear. There is the possibility of making it the
chief harbour on the south coast of France, but hitherto the influences
of Marseilles have been too strong; and so this vast basin is as
tranquil and deserted as if it were some inlet on the coast of Borneo,
and, except for the little lateen-rigged fishing-boats which dot its
surface day in and day out throughout the year, not a mast of a
_goélette_ and not a funnel of a steamship ever crosses its
horizon,--except the manœuvring torpedo-boats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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