Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
The first apparition of the city of Berre is charming, and, like
Martigues, it is a sort of a cross between Venice and Amsterdam. Its
streets, like its canals and basins, are narrow and winding, though for
the most part it stretches itself out along one slim thoroughfare. Its
aspect, apparently, has not changed in thirty years, when Taine wrote
his impressions of “_ces rues d’une étroitesse étonnante_.” He made a
further comment which does not hold true to-day. He said that there was
an infectious odour of concentrated humanity, with the dust and mud of
centuries still over all. From the very paradox of the description it is
not difficult to infer that he nodded, and assuredly Berre is not
to-day, if it ever was, _sale, comme si depuis le commencement des
siècles_.
All the same Berre is not a progressive town, as is shown by the fact
that between the two last censuses its population has fallen from
eighteen hundred to fifteen. However, its trade has increased
perceptibly, thanks to the salt works here, and the tiny port gave a
haven, in the year past, to a hundred craft averaging a hundred tons
each.
Northward from the shores of the Étang de Berre lies Salon, the most
commercial of all the cities and towns between Arles and Marseilles.
Differing greatly from the lowlands lying round about, Salon is the
centre of a verdant garden-spot reclaimed by the monks of St. Sauveur
from an ancient marshy plain. In reality the town owes its existence to
Jeanne de Naples, who, forced to flee from her kingdom in 1357, dreamed
of establishing another here in Provence. She actually did take up a
portion of the country, and the village of Salon, through the erection
of a donjon and a royal residence, took on some of the characteristics
of a capital.
In spite of its royal patronage, the chief deity of Salon was
Nostradamus, who was born at St. Rémy, of Jewish parents, in 1503.
Destined for the medical profession, he completed his studies at
Montpellier and retired to Salon to produce that curious work called
“Centuries,” he having come to believe that he was possessed of the
spirit of prophecy to such an extent that his mission was really to
enlighten rather than cure the world.
Michael Nostradamus and his prophecies created some stir in the world,
for it was a superstitious age. The Medici was doing her part in the
patronizing of astrologers and necromancers, and promptly became a
patron of this new seer of Provence, though never forswearing allegiance
to her pet Ruggieri. It is on record that Catherine got a horoscope of
the lives of her sons from Nostradamus and showed him great deference.
After this all the world of princes and seigneurs flocked to the
prophet’s house at Salon, which became a veritable shrine, with a
living deity to do the honours. To-day one may see his tomb in the
parish church of St. Laurent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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