Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Of the antiquity of the little fishing-port there is no question, but it
is doubtful if the hordes of Marseillais who come here in summer, to eat
_bouillabaisse_ on the verandas of its restaurants and hotels, know, or
care, anything of this.
As the Incarrus Posito, it had an existence long before _bouillabaisse_
was ever thought of, at least by its present name. It was one of the
advance-posts of the Massaliotes when Marseilles was the Massalia of the
Greeks.
Carry, with its port, and the château of M. Philippe Jourde, a Frenchman
who won his fortune on the field of commerce in the United States, is
delightful, but it is not usually accounted one of the sights that is
worth the while of the Riviera tourist to go out of his way to see.
Within the grounds of the château have been brought to light within
recent years many monumental remains; one bearing the two following
inscriptions bespeaks an antiquity contemporary with the early years of
the building up of Marseilles:
+-----------------+
+-----------+ | |
| | | AES AVC |
| C. POMPEI | |C R IANCO |
| PLANTEA | |IP CAIII |
| | |EXCL INIPSNIS |
| | |SEVIR AUGUSTALIS |
| | | |
| | | I. S. D.|
+-----------+ | |
+-----------------+
Besides this, marbles, mosaics, pottery, coins, and even precious metals
have been found. Carry may then have been something more than a fortress
outpost, or a fishing-village; it may have been a Pompeii.
Almost at one’s elbow is Marseilles itself, brilliant and burning with
the feverish energies of a great mart of trade, and bathed in the dark
blue of the Mediterranean and the lighter blue of the skies. Beyond are
the isles of the bay and the rocky promontories to the eastward, while
to the northeast are the heights of the Var and the Alpes-Maritimes.
Truly the kaleidoscopic first view of the “_Porte de l’Orient_” fully
justifies any rhapsodies. There is but one other view in all France at
all approaching it in splendour,--that of Rouen from the height of Bon
Secours,--and that, in effect, is quite different.
One’s approach to Marseilles by rail from the north is equally a
reminder of a theatrical transformation scene, such as one has when he
reaches Rouen or Cologne; a sudden unfolding of new and strange beauties
of prospect, which are nothing if not startling. The railway runs for
many minutes in the obscurity of the Tunnel de la Nerthe before it
finally debouches on the southern gorges of the Estaque Range, the same
which flanks the coast all the way from Marseilles to the entrance to
the Étang de Berre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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