Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
The Rade de Toulon is one of the joys of the Mediterranean. Its splendid
banks are cut into graceful curves, and the background of hills and
mountains makes a joyful picture indeed, whether viewed from land or
sea. The charming little bays of its outline are quite in harmony with
the brilliant blue of the sky, and not even the smoke-pouring chimneys
of the shipyards at La Seyne sound a false note, but rather they accent
the natural beauties to a still higher degree.
Away beyond the Grande Rade are the ragged isles of the archipelago of
Hyères, wave-battered and gleaming in the sunlight, while around the
whole nebulous horizon are effects of brilliant colouring of land and
sea hardly to be equalled, certainly not to be excelled. Wooded
peninsulas come down and jut out into the sea, and, despite the air of
activity which is over the whole neighbourhood, there is an idyllic
charm about the remote suburbs which is indescribable.
[Illustration: _Fishing-boats at Tamaris_]
Guarded seaward by grim forts, and admirably sheltered from the mistral,
which blows over its head and out to sea, is Tamaris, whose fame
first started from a four months’ residence here of George Sand. Like
Alphonse Karr and Dumas, the elder, George Sand, if not the discoverer
of a new and unpatronized _pied de terre_, gave the first impetus to
Tamaris as a resort of not too alluring attractions, and yet
all-sufficient to one who wanted to enjoy the quietness and beauties of
nature to a superlative degree, all within a half-hour’s journey of a
great city. So pleased was the great woman of French letters that she
laid the scene of one of her last and most celebrated romances here. All
the delicate plants of a latitude five hundred miles farther south here
find a foothold, and flourish as soon as they have become acclimated and
taken root. Hence it has become a “garden-spot,” in truth, and one which
is too often neglected by Riviera tourists in general. There is small
reason for this, and when one realizes that Tamaris is a first-class
literary shrine as well--for the dwelling (the Maison Trucy) inhabited
by Madame Sand still stands--there is even less.
The magic ring of Michel Pacha, the innovator of lighthouses within the
waters of the Ottoman empire, has served to develop and enrich a little
corner of this delightful bit of the tropics, and, where the cypress and
pine once grew alone, are now found palm, orange, and lemon trees; and
hedges and walls of the laurier-rose line the alleys which lead to the
Oriental-looking château of this dignitary of the East. The effect is
just the least bit garish and out of place, but like all groupings of
nature and art on Mediterranean shores, it is undeniably effective, and
the domain all in all looks not unlike a stage setting for the “Arabian
Nights.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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