Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Just back of Tamaris is, or was, the celebrated “Batterie des Hommes
Sans Peur,” which so awakened the interest and curiosity of George Sand
that she implored the authorities to make a memorial of the spot
forthwith, and spend less time digging for prehistoric remains.
The construction of the battery was one of the first great exploits of
the young Napoleon (1793), which, with the subsequent taking of the
Petit-Gibraltar (as the present Fort Napoleon was then known), was one
of the real history-making events of modern France.
Madame Sand marvelled that the site of this tiny battery had been so
neglected. It was due to that distinguished lady that the exact location
of the battery was made known, and, though still merely a ruined
earthwork, may be reckoned as one of the patriotic souvenirs of a lurid
page of history.
George Sand had the idea of buying these twenty metres square of ground,
surrounding them with a paling and making a path thereto which should
lead from the highway. Ultimately she intended to plant a simple stone
with the following inscription: “_Ici Reposent les Hommes Sans Peur_.”
This was never done, however, and so those only who have the memory of
the incident well within their grasp ever even come across the site.
There is something more than a legendary grandeur about it all, and
those who are unfamiliar with the incident had best refer to any good
life of Napoleon, and learn what really happened at the famous siege of
Toulon.
Toulon is about the best guarded arsenal in all the world. The Caps
Mouret, Notre Dame de la Garde, Sicié, and Sepet play nature’s part, and
play it well, and the hand of man has added cannons wherever he could
find a resting-place for them. “_Canons! encore canons, et toujours des
canons!_” said a French commercial traveller at the _table d’hôte_, when
the artist told him that she had been remonstrated with when making a
sketch on the summit of an exceedingly beautiful hillside to the
eastward of the city. This admonition was enough. Much better to take
good advice than to languish in prison till your consul comes and gets
you out,--which is just what has happened to inquisitive artists in
France before now.
Toulon is warlike to the very core, and, in spite of an active historic
past, there is scarcely a monument in the town to-day, except the old
cathedral of Saint Marie Majeure, which takes rank among those which
appeal for architectural worth alone. The arsenal is the chief
attraction; remove it, and Toulon might become a great commercial
centre, or even a “watering-place,” but with it the very atmosphere
smacks of powder and shot.
The city is not unlovely as great cities go. It is modern, well-kept,
and certainly well-beautified by trees and shrubs and flowers, and wide,
straight streets, and, above all, it is blessed with a charming
situation.
[Illustration: _In Toulon’s Old Port_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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