Clergy -- England -- Biography; Stoughton, John, 1807-1897
The fame of the Alhambra swallows up all which is wonderful in Granada,
but, the city retains much besides worthy of a traveller’s attention.
The prospect you have of the place, the plain, and the surrounding hills,
is magnificent; and the cathedral, commenced in 1529, after the defeat
and banishment of the Moors, is a building of architectural interest. It
contains the Capella Real, with the tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella; also
of Philip the Handsome, and his wife Juana, “Crazy Jane,” as she was
called, mother of the famous Charles V. The granddaughter tells us: “She
committed her soul to God and gave thanks to Him, that, at length, He
delivered her from all her sorrows.” In connection with the cathedral,
we meet with Fernando de Talavera, better known by Spaniards than by
Englishmen. Though he remained a Roman Catholic, he deviated from the
common opinions and usages of his age. The Carthusians have a monastery
outside the city, and on visiting it, I found pictures of English
priests, reported to have been martyrs at the period of the Reformation.
No doubt their sufferings are exaggerated on the monastic walls, but it
is a fact, beyond reasonable doubt, that there were Roman Catholics put
to death by English Protestants.
We started one morning from Granada for Seville, and, on crossing the
Vega by the railway, we saw a good barley crop in the month of April. At
Bobadillo, we got on the Seville line, and found the country improve as
we came near to the city on the banks of the Guadalquivir. There,
instead of antique and uncomfortable _fondas_, travellers meet with
spacious and well-furnished hotels. We tarried several days in the city.
The cathedral, of course, was the first object of interest; and, as soon
as possible, we repaired to it, and received an overpowering impression,
as we looked above, beneath, around. Above there is the magnificent
roof, spanning the breadth of the temple; beneath there lies a large slab
covering the remains, not, as sometimes supposed, of Columbus, who
discovered America, but of Fernando, his son. In Holy Week an immense
Greek cross, carved in wood, is raised over the spot, and lighted up so
as to produce an indescribable effect. The _coro_, or choir, is as
grand, though in another way, as the nave which leads up to it. In an
upper part of the edifice there are preserved MSS. and other memorials of
unrivalled Spanish discoveries, and they were freely shown to us. We
went to the Museum, and feasted on Murillo’s pictures. We were also
taken by a friend to see another work of the same artist, since
presented, I am told, to the Pope.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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