We rose at six o’clock, and took a basin of milk before we set forward on
our journey to Glen Coe. It was a delightful morning, the road
excellent, and we were in good spirits, happy that we had no more ferries
to cross, and pleased with the thought that we were going among the grand
mountains which we saw before us at the head of the loch. We travelled
close to the water’s edge, and were rolling along a smooth road, when the
horse suddenly backed, frightened by the upright shafts of a roller
rising from behind the wall of a field adjoining the road. William
pulled, whipped, and struggled in vain; we both leapt upon the ground,
and the horse dragged the car after him, he going backwards down the bank
of the loch, and it was turned over, half in the water, the horse lying
on his back, struggling in the harness, a frightful sight! I gave up
everything; thought that the horse would be lamed, and the car broken to
pieces. Luckily a man came up in the same moment, and assisted William
in extricating the horse, and, after an hour’s delay, with the help of
strings and pocket-handkerchiefs, we mended the harness and set forward
again, William leading the poor animal all the way, for the regular
beating of the waves frightened him, and any little gushing stream that
crossed the road would have sent him off. The village where the
blacksmith lived was before us—a few huts under the mountains, and, as it
seemed, at the head of the loch; but it runs further up to the left,
being narrowed by a hill above the village, near which, at the edge of
the water, was a slate quarry, and many large boats with masts, on the
water below, high mountains shutting in the prospect, which stood in
single, distinguishable shapes, yet clustered together—simple and bold in
their forms, and their surfaces of all characters and all colours—some
that looked as if scarified by fire, others green; and there was one that
might have been blasted by an eternal frost, its summit and sides for a
considerable way down being as white as hoar-frost at eight o’clock on a
winter’s morning. No clouds were on the hills; the sun shone bright, but
the wind blew fresh and cold.
When we reached the blacksmith’s shop, I left William to help to take
care of the horse, and went into the house. The mistress, with a child
in her arms and two or three running about, received me very kindly,
making many apologies for the dirty house, which she partly attributed to
its being Saturday; but I could plainly see that it was dirt of all days.
I sate in the midst of it with great delight, for the woman’s benevolent,
happy countenance almost converted her slovenly and lazy way of leaving
all things to take care of themselves into a comfort and a blessing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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