It was not a Highland hut, but a slated house built by the master of the
quarry for the accommodation of his blacksmith,—the shell of an English
cottage, as if left unfinished by the workmen, without plaster, and with
floor of mud. Two beds, with not over-clean bedclothes, were in the
room. Luckily for me, there was a good fire and a boiling kettle. The
woman was very sorry she had no butter; none was to be had in the
village: she gave me oaten and barley bread. We talked over the fire; I
answered her hundred questions, and in my turn put some to her. She
asked me, as usual, if I was married, how many brothers I had, etc. etc.
I told her that William was married, and had a fine boy; to which she
replied, ‘And the man’s a decent man too.’ Her next-door neighbour came
in with a baby on her arm, to request that I would accept of some fish,
which I broiled in the ashes. She joined in our conversation, but with
more shyness than her neighbour, being a very young woman. She happened
to say that she was a stranger in that place, and had been bred and born
a long way off. On my asking her where, she replied, ‘At Leadhills;’ and
when I told her that I had been there, a joy lighted up her countenance
which I shall never forget, and when she heard that it was only a
fortnight before, her eyes filled with tears. I was exceedingly affected
with the simplicity of her manners; her tongue was now let loose, and she
would have talked for ever of Leadhills, of her mother, of the quietness
of the people in general, and the goodness of Mrs. Otto, who, she told
me, was a ‘varra discreet woman.’ She was sure we should be ‘well put
up’ at Mrs. Otto’s, and praised her house and furniture; indeed, it
seemed she thought all earthly comforts were gathered together under the
bleak heights that surround the villages of Wanlockhead and Leadhills:
and afterwards, when I said it was a wild country thereabouts, she even
seemed surprised, and said it was not half so wild as where she lived
now. One circumstance which she mentioned of Mrs. Otto I must record,
both in proof of her ‘discretion,’ and the sobriety of the people at
Leadhills, namely, that no liquor was ever drunk in her house after a
certain hour of the night—I have forgotten what hour; but it was an early
one, I am sure not later than ten.
The blacksmith, who had come in to his breakfast, was impatient to finish
our job, that he might go out into the hay-field, for, it being a fine
day, every plot of hay-ground was scattered over with hay-makers. On my
saying that I guessed much of their hay must be spoiled, he told me no,
for that they had high winds, which dried it quickly,—the people
understood the climate, ‘were clever at the work, and got it in with a
blink.’ He hastily swallowed his breakfast, dry bread and a basin of
weak tea without sugar, and held his baby on his knee till he had done.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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