himself about us, till he said he had passed us on the Black Mountain,
near King’s House. It was pleasant to observe the effect of solitary
places in making men friends, and to see so much kindness, which had been
produced in such a chance encounter, retained in a crowd. No beds in the
inns at Falkirk—every room taken up by the people come to the fair.
Lodged in a private house, a neat clean place—kind treatment from the old
man and his daughter.
* * * * *
_Thursday_, _September_ 15_th_.—Breakfasted at Linlithgow, a small town.
The house is yet shown from which the Regent Murray was shot. The
remains of a royal palace, where Queen Mary was born, are of considerable
extent; the banks of gardens and fish-ponds may yet be distinctly traced,
though the whole surface is transformed into smooth pasturage where
cattle graze. The castle stands upon a gentle eminence, the prospect not
particularly pleasing, though not otherwise; it is bare and wide. The
shell of a small ancient church is standing, into which are crammed
modern pews, galleries, and pulpit—very ugly, and discordant with the
exterior. Nothing very interesting till we came to Edinburgh. Dined by
the way at a small town or village upon a hill, the back part of the
houses on one side overlooking an extensive prospect over flat corn
fields. I mention this for the sake of a pleasant hour we passed sitting
on the bank, where we read some of Burns’s poems in the volume which we
had bought at Stirling.
Arrived at Edinburgh a little before sunset. As we approached, the
Castle rock resembled that of Stirling—in the same manner appearing to
rise from a plain of cultivated ground, the Firth of Forth being on the
other side, and not visible. Drove to the White Hart in the
Grass-market, an inn which had been mentioned to us, and which we
conjectured would better suit us than one in a more fashionable part of
the town. It was not noisy, and tolerably cheap. Drank tea, and walked
up to the Castle, which luckily was very near. Much of the daylight was
gone, so that except it had been a clear evening, which it was not, we
could not have seen the distant prospect.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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