_Friday_, _September_ 6_th_.—The sky the evening before, as you may
remember the ostler told us, had been ‘gay and dull,’ and this morning it
was downright dismal: very dark, and promising nothing but a wet day, and
before breakfast was over the rain began, though not heavily. We set out
upon our walk, and went through many streets to Holyrood House, and
thence to the hill called Arthur’s Seat, a high hill, very rocky at the
top, and below covered with smooth turf, on which sheep were feeding. We
climbed up till we came to St. Anthony’s Well and Chapel, as it is
called, but it is more like a hermitage than a chapel,—a small ruin,
which from its situation is exceedingly interesting, though in itself not
remarkable. We sate down on a stone not far from the chapel, overlooking
a pastoral hollow as wild and solitary as any in the heart of the
Highland mountains: there, instead of the roaring of torrents, we
listened to the noises of the city, which were blended in one loud
indistinct buzz,—a regular sound in the air, which in certain moods of
feeling, and at certain times, might have a more tranquillizing effect
upon the mind than those which we are accustomed to hear in such places.
The Castle rock looked exceedingly large through the misty air: a cloud
of black smoke overhung the city, which combined with the rain and mist
to conceal the shapes of the houses,—an obscurity which added much to the
grandeur of the sound that proceeded from it. It was impossible to think
of anything that was little or mean, the goings-on of trade, the strife
of men, or every-day city business:—the impression was one, and it was
visionary; like the conceptions of our childhood of Bagdad or Balsora
when we have been reading the Arabian Nights’ Entertainments. Though the
rain was very heavy we remained upon the hill for some time, then
returned by the same road by which we had come, through green flat
fields, formerly the pleasure-grounds of Holyrood House, on the edge of
which stands the old roofless chapel, of venerable architecture. It is a
pity that it should be suffered to fall down, for the walls appear to be
yet entire. Very near to the chapel is Holyrood House, which we could
not but lament has nothing ancient in its appearance, being sash-windowed
and not an irregular pile. It is very like a building for some national
establishment,—a hospital for soldiers or sailors. You have a
description of it in Stoddart’s Tour, therefore I need not tell you what
we saw there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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