I have spoken of the semi-disapprobation with which my Quaker farmer
declined the wine and beer offered him at my 4th of July festival.
Some years after, when I found the men employed in mowing a meadow
of mine at Lenox with no refreshment but "water from the well," I
sent in much distress a considerable distance for a barrel of beer,
which seemed to me an indispensable adjunct to such labor under the
fervid heat of that summer sky; and was most seriously expostulated
with by my admirable friend, Mr. Charles Sedgwick, as introducing
among the laborers of Lenox a mischievous need and deleterious
habit, till then utterly unknown there, and setting a pernicious
example to both employers and employed throughout the whole
neighborhood. In short, my poor barrel of beer was an offense to the
manners and morals of the community I lived in, and my meadow was
mowed upon cold "water from the well"; of which indeed the water was
so delicious, that I often longed for it as King David did for that
which, after all, he would not drink, because his mighty men had
risked their lives in procuring it for him.[1]
[1] In writing thus, I do not mean to imply that the abuse of
intoxicating liquors, or the vice of drunkenness were then
unknown in America. The national habits of the present day would
suggest that such a change (albeit in the space of fifty years)
would surpass the rapidity of movement of even that most rapidly
changing nation. But the use of either beer or wine at the
tables of the Philadelphians, when I first lived among them, was
quite exceptional. There was a small knot of old-fashioned
gentlemen (very like old-fashioned Englishmen they were), by
whom good wine was known and appreciated; especially certain
exquisite Madeira, of the Bingham and Butler names, the like of
which it was believed the world could not produce; but this was
Olympian nectar, for the gods alone; and the usual custom of the
best society, at the early three-o'clock dinner, was
water-drinking. Nor had the immense increase of the German
population then flooded Philadelphia with perennial streams from
innumerable "lager beer" cellars and saloons: the universal
rule, at the time when these letters were written, was absolute
temperance; the exception to it, a rare occasional instance of
absolute intemperance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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