The Opera was performed in an unheated, barnlike structure. It was so
cold that the audience kept on their heavy coats and were provided,
in addition, with blankets to wrap around their feet. In spite of the
fact that charcoal braziers were placed between the stage and the
first row, the temperature in the building was close to freezing,
and the breath of the actors as they chanted their lines came out in
puffs of smoke. These performers were Spartans indeed, changing their
costumes in the draughty, unheated barn, their teeth chattering and
their tawny flesh a mass of goose pimples. The costumes, in contrast
to those seen on a Peking or a Shanghai stage, were fashioned of
rough, drab bits of cast-off apparel, crudely sewn together and
patched with whatever pieces of material could be begged, borrowed or
stolen.
The show itself, like the Ballet in Moscow, was a superb exhibition
of Chinese art, for, when shown to foreigners, it was free from
Communist propaganda. The falsetto voices of the actors sing-songed
the ancient Chinese poetry, while their bodies swayed to its rhythmic
cadence. During the performance, an usher went up and down the aisle
tossing hot towels to guests who called shrilly for them. These,
wrung out of boiling water, gave the hall a dank, slightly rancid
atmosphere, reminiscent of a river in summer. Roasted watermelon
seeds were pressed generously upon the honored guest by his Chinese
Communist hosts, who were noisily but skillfully cracking them
edgewise between their strong front teeth and spitting out the husks.
Not all the visitor’s stay, however, was passed in entertainment.
Before leaving Yenan, General Marshall sat behind locked doors with
Mao and members of the Politburo. No other American was allowed to be
present at this meeting. What was said is not known, but there were
rumors in Communist circles that the subject of the conversations had
to do with the future of Manchuria, and perhaps all of Asia.
On leaving this capital city of Communist China, Marshall returned to
the United States to make his report to President Truman.
When he came back to China, Marshall made his residence in Nanking
(the Nationalist capital at that time), but established a Northern
Headquarters in Peiping (meaning Northern Peace), in order to work
out a truce between Communists and Nationalists. The futility of
this endeavor was obvious even to the Chinese GI, who nicknamed the
Peiping Headquarters the “Temple of the Thousand Sleeping Colonels,”
and to the American GI, who dubbed it “Marshall’s Bird Sanctuary.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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