British -- Costa Rica -- Fiction; Short stories; Travel -- Fiction
At about noon that day the file of travellers formed itself into the line
which it afterwards kept during the whole of the journey, and then
started by the narrow path into the forest. First walked the leader of
the guides, then another man following him; Abel Ring came next, and
behind him the maid-servant; then the baby’s mule, with the Indian ever
at its head; close at his heels followed Mrs. Arkwright, so that the
mother’s eye might be always on her child; and after her her husband;
then another guide on foot completed the number of the travellers. In
this way they went on and on, day after day, till they reached the banks
of the Serapiqui, never once varying their places in the procession. As
they started in the morning, so they went on till their noon-day’s rest,
and so again they made their evening march. In that journey there was no
idea of variety, no searching after the pleasures of scenery, no attempts
at conversation with any object of interest or amusement. What words
were spoken were those simply needful, or produced by sympathy for
suffering. So they journeyed, always in the same places, with one
exception. They began their work with two guides leading them, but
before the first day was over one of them had fallen back to the side of
Mrs. Arkwright, for she was unable to sit on her mule without support.
Their daily work was divided into two stages, so as to give some hours
for rest in the middle of the day. It had been arranged that the
distance for each day should not be long,—should be very short as was
thought by them all when they talked it over at San José; but now the
hours which they passed in the saddle seemed to be endless. Their
descent began from that ridge of which I have spoken, and they had no
sooner turned their faces down upon the mountain slopes looking towards
the Atlantic, than that passage of mud began to which there was no
cessation till they found themselves on the banks of the Serapiqui river.
I doubt whether it be possible to convey in words an adequate idea of the
labour of riding over such a path. It is not that any active exertion is
necessary,—that there is anything which requires doing. The traveller
has before him the simple task of sitting on his mule from hour to hour,
and of seeing that his knees do not get themselves jammed against the
trees; but at every step the beast he rides has to drag his legs out from
the deep clinging mud, and the body of the rider never knows one moment
of ease. Why the mules do not die on the road, I cannot say. They live
through it, and do not appear to suffer. They have their own way in
everything, for no exertion on the rider’s part will make them walk
either faster or slower than is their wont.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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