Great Britain -- Description and travel; Railroad travel -- Great Britain; Railroads -- Great Britain
The town stands on the west side of the river Avon,--Shakspeare's Avon, from
which it is separated by Warwick Castle and grounds. It was formerly a
little county metropolis, many of the families of rank and fortune had winter
residences there; the Warwick balls were frequented by a select and exclusive
set; a small theatre was well supported, and few races assembled more
distinguished company than used to throng the Warwick course once a year, in
family coaches and four-in-hands. All this grandeur has departed, Leamington
has absorbed the wealth and fashion of Warwick, the town mansions have fallen
into plebeian hands, the theatre has ceased to be a training school for the
London boards, the streets are silent except when a little temporary bustle
is produced by an influx of Birmingham attorneys, their clients, and
witnesses, at the assizes, of stout agriculturists and holiday labourers on
"fair days," or the annual "mop," when an ox is roasted whole, and lads and
lasses of rosy rural breed range themselves along the pavement to be hired,
or at the races twice a year, when, although the four horses with postilions
and outriders are seldom seen, railroads from a distance, and Leamington from
close at hand, pour a variegated stream of sightseers and gamblers on one of
the prettiest pieces of ground in England.
Warwick has no manufactures, but, being a borough very evenly balanced
between the two contending political parties, its inhabitants have enjoyed a
fuller share of the favours of Government than has fallen to the lot of towns
of more commercial importance.
Warwick stands on solid rock, in which the cellars are excavated; and this
circumstance, added to its position on the top of a hill, renders it
particularly dry and clean.
There are several excellent inns, supported by the surrounding' farmers,
which are much to be preferred to more fashionable hotels. The roast geese
to be found at the farmers' ordinaries on market days about Michaelmas time,
are worthy of commendation; and the farmers themselves, being of a jovial and
hospitable turn of mind, render these dinners pleasanter to a stranger who
can dine at an unfashionable hour, than the eternal "anything you please,
sir; steak or chop, sir," in a solitary box, which haunts us for our sins in
the coffee-rooms of English hotels.
Warwick deserves a long journey, if it were only for the sake of the fine
woodland scenery which surrounds it for ten miles, but the castle is the
especial object of attraction,--a castle which realizes almost more than any
other those romantic ideas of a feudal abode which were first put into
circulation by the "Castle of Otranto," and became part of the education of
our youth under the influence of the genius of Sir Walter Scott.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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