Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.Kunz, George Frederick
History
Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.
Kunz, George Frederick
Rings; Rings -- Folklore
The types of these rings varied considerably in the course of
centuries. Those of the sixteenth century were made of plain gold,
or of gold enamelled with representations of a skeleton, spade and
pick, hour-glass, or similar emblems of death; the inscription was
engraved, usually on the inside of the ring; occasionally the bezel
was rounded into the form of a skull. In the period succeeding the
death of Queen Anne (1714), and extending to about 1774, the fashion
gradually changed, and the inscriptions, instead of being engraved,
were in raised letters, thrown into greater relief by the application
of white and black enamel. This style is said to have been brought
from France, and the earliest specimens are presumed to have been
executed by French workmen; an example of this type of ring, dating
from 1717, is in the Crisp Collection. In one such ring the inscription
is enamelled _within_ the hoop. An exceptionally fine specimen of
the rings of this period is that in memory of Richard Pett, who died
February 23, 1765, aged 76 years.[74] This bears an amethyst and four
rose diamonds in an openwork setting. Another innovation during this
period is the employment of white enamel in the case of rings in memory
of young maidens; the earliest example dates from 1726 and was given as
a memento of the death, at fifteen years, of Dorothy Tenison, daughter
of the Bishop of Ossory. In their search for novelty the goldsmiths
sometimes had resort to rather grewsome decorations, and the bezel
of some rings has the form of a coffin, within which lies a skeleton,
carefully done in enamel.
The last quarter of the eighteenth century supplies us with some of
the most elaborately designed memorial rings. In many of these the
bezel shows various emblematic figures formed of gold wire, seed
pearls, ivory and enamel; one ring of this type has the inscription:
“Heaven has in store what thou hast lost.” However, hair soon became
the favorite material. At first, a lock of hair from the head of the
deceased person was enclosed in the bezel, no attempt being made to
form any pattern; but soon the hair was spread out over the surface and
arranged in the form of a tree; later on, these rings show us an urn
placed beneath the tree, and still later we have in addition a male or
female figure in an attitude of grief, all these being formed entirely
of hair.
A unique ring in the Crisp Collection[75] is a memento of the death of
seven children, the eldest not over nine years, who perished in a fire
in Leadenhall Street, London. This gold and ivory ring bears a design
showing seven cherubs’ heads surrounding the words: “To eternal bliss.”
At the back of the bezel is inscribed: “Translated 18 January 1782.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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