Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
From Kirkfell we can readily mark the Oblique Chimney which cuts deeply
into the upper half of the centre of the face, and terminates at a
right-angled notch in the sky-line. Some distance to the right we may
with a good light identify the Great Central Gully that cuts the face
from top to bottom. To the immediate right of this is an easy scree
leading the whole way to the top of the crags. Near the foot of this on
the right there used to be a slab pinnacle some fifteen feet in height
that has since been completely disintegrated by rain and frost. A year
or two ago the freshly exposed rock that bore witness of the recent
departure of the pinnacle could be clearly recognised by contrast with
the older face. This climb is now reported to have been exceedingly
difficult; such will probably be the future reputation of the fast
disappearing Stirrup Crag on Yewbarrow. A little higher up this scree
slope, on a small platform out to the left, the remains of an old
stone-walled enclosure could once be distinguished. It may have been
the haunt of whisky smugglers or the hiding place of some miserable
outlaw. It is to be regretted that the remains are now in too bad a
state of repair to be recognised as artificial. Between the Oblique
Chimney and the Central Gully lies the easy route or natural passage by
which a mountain sheep of ordinary powers ‘might ascend’; though it not
infrequently occurs that the perplexed climber roundly declares that
the mountain sheep of average mental capacity is not so foolish as to
venture into such a bewildering region of small grass traverses, steep
stony slopes, and ledgeless walls.
Immediately to the left of the Oblique Chimney is the climb that leads
past the Bottle-shaped Pinnacle and up the huge retaining buttress
of the chimney. Further towards Wind Gap the sky-line suddenly drops
at the upper level of Stony Gully--an easy, though rough, passage up
broken boulders and loose scree, by which the crags can be outflanked.
The wire fence that leads over Wind Gap to Green Gable and Brandreth
begins here, and is a useful landmark in misty weather. Mr. Haskett
Smith found in 1882 a ‘high level route’ across the face at about
two-thirds of the way up. It is an excellent ramble, and full of
strange surprises, passing along exposed ledges, in between towers of
rock and the great upper wall, offering a peep into the black recess
of the Oblique Chimney, and an easy digression up to the Bottle-shaped
Pinnacle. It finishes close to the foot of Stony Gully, and can be
recommended for a preliminary survey of the more difficult routes up
the Ennerdale face.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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