Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
OBLIQUE CHIMNEY.--From a few notes added to a sketch of the
known routes up the Ennerdale face, which Mr. John Robinson inserted in
the Wastdale Climbing Book, April, 1890, I derived my first impressions
of the Oblique Chimney: ‘This has, I believe, not yet been climbed and
is not very safe, owing to the jammed stones in it being loose, and
the clean-cut walls on each side making these stones of consequence.’
This description was realistic though brief, but I thought little of
the place till the Christmas vacation of 1892-3, when I learnt that Mr.
R. C. Gilson had proposed to attack the chimney one fine day, but was
forestalled by Dr. Collier’s party. These latter took the precautionary
measure of partly descending the chimney, so as to clear away the
_débris_ and loose stones that hovered over the edge of each pitch;
they then returned to the foot of the chimney and forced a way directly
up to the top. The important jammed stones required for the middle
portion were quite firm enough for safe holding, and the party returned
with a fuller praise of the beauties of the chimney than any one had
anticipated. I was given an account of the expedition a day or two
later, and was glad enough to get the opportunity of trying conclusions
with the crags on that side of Gable, which till then was unexplored
country for me.
My companion that Christmas was a learned classic, weary of brain work,
whom I had induced to take a little climbing in Cumberland as a tonic.
Some people cannot take quinine, others apparently cannot benefit by
rock-climbing. This latter I found to be the case with my friend, whose
struggle with the _confracti rudera mundi_ made him despondent instead
of inducing a healthy exhilaration. The sore limbs and torn clothing he
never seemed able to forget, far less to enjoy. Yet the ruling passion
of phrase-making was strong even _in extremis_, and he longed to put
his sufferings into words. Sometimes on the rocks I might casually turn
to see that he was coming up well. His eyes would be gazing at nothing
and his lips moving as if in prayer. But it was not prayer, it was a
Greek or Latin quotation, preferably the former because of its rich
vocabulary for description of scenery. On the whole he was enjoying
the new experiences hugely in his own melancholy way, and I felt no
compunction in insisting on his joining K. and A. when we planned our
excursion up Gable by way of the Oblique Chimney. The day was rather
cloudy and snow threatened, but we took plenty of provisions, and K.
carried a pocket compass. We started somewhat late in the morning,
and walked leisurely up Gavel Neese and round the Beckhead by way of
Moses’ Sledgate. But on reaching the wire fence we found that the
mist completely enveloped the Gable crags and gave us no chance of
identifying our climb from below. Then we skirted along the base in the
vain hope of a momentary disclosure of the chimney by a parting of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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