Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
At last we reached the shores of the frozen tarn and turned wearily
up to the right. The path was in a shocking state, and on arriving at
the cairn at the top of the pass we found a continuous glaze of ice
along our route. So, at any rate, it seemed to be that night--my first
experience of crossing the Styhead in the dark. It was nothing less
than actual hand-and-foot work in many an awkward corner. Subsequent
opportunities of climbing down the path in the dark have often been
given me, but that first night was the worst. How we managed to avoid
broken limbs has ever been a mystery. We would suddenly slip over on
the ice, and slide furiously down the path and into some obstruction
below. We had tried to smoke, but pipes were too dangerous to hold
between the teeth during these unpremeditated rushes. But time ends
all things. By ten o’clock we were anointed with Vaseline and massaged
with Elliman, with the prospect of substantial fare to follow. The
classic slippered into the dining-room to report himself. He had waited
on Gable cairn till half-past three, and then had returned by the way
he had come. Our lunch he had left under a stone, and as a guide to
our finding it had stamped the snow down and drawn with his finger
several arrows or asterisks or other marks of reference in the snow.
It was very clever, but the fresh fall thwarted his ingenuity only too
effectually.
The Oblique Chimney rapidly became popular, and has since been visited
by many climbers. But it can never be regarded as an easy ascent.
Some time during the summer following I looked down it to see how
a descent might be managed. The loose stones at the top were most
uncomfortably unstable, and the clamber down towards the entrance of
the upper cave required great care, without being exactly perilous. A
friend was with me who counselled waiting till we should find ourselves
up there again with a rope, and ultimately his advice prevailed. Some
eighteen months later, in January, 1895, a large party of Wastdale
Christmas revellers made for the Oblique Chimney top. The crags were
approached from the scree below, a few feet to the north of the
entrance to the Central Gully. We took to a little chimney at once,
and then up a grassy slope to another chimney that brought us to steep
grass and scree with frequent outcrops of rock.
Thence we made up towards the entrance to the Oblique Chimney then
visible, and before reaching it clambered up an incipient gully on the
left wall that bounds the scree just there. It led over the sharp crest
of the buttress that supports the bottle-shaped pinnacle, and thence we
had a steep but fairly easy descent of ten or twelve feet to a ledge
that led round to the other side. The rocks were dry and very free from
snow, so that each member of our party found himself able to pull up
easily from ledge to ledge in the little gully till the notch between
the pinnacle and the main wall was reached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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