Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Thence the leader turned up to the left, and recommenced a similar
series of ledge-climbing operations, of which only the first from the
notch could be called in any sense difficult. We had a magnificent view
down the face, which is particularly steep just here, and the frequent
halts rendered necessary by the size of our party afforded plenty of
time to admire the huge slabs that separated the ‘sheep walk’ from
us. A small stone-man marked our point of arrival at the summit of
the crags, and after adding a block or two as our contribution to the
cairn we turned right, and in a few yards had reached the rectangular
entrance to the Oblique Chimney.
The main difficulty in the descent was to prevent stones sliding on to
the heads of men lower down, who were in the direct line of fire and
rarely able to raise a protecting arm for themselves. The upper ones
were continually cautioned by those in peril to keep an eye to the
rope, and prevent its dragging over the bed of the gully. All passed
down safely, but I remember making a mistake when descending the great
overhanging pitch at the bottom, in assuming that it was an easy matter
to climb down with a camera sack on my back. I had descended part of
the ‘ladder,’ but then found the need of a back pressure, and hesitated
about crushing in the contents of my sack. The rope is of no use to
the last man in a place of that kind, and I therefore was permitted to
untie the knot round my waist and fix on the sack instead, letting it
down gently to the others by the left hand. The right was needed to
hold on firmly to the ladder, so that the teeth were in requisition for
the tying. The descent offers another instance of the ease with which a
chimney that is exceptionally severe in the ascent may be traversed in
the reverse direction. Where gravity helps the motion we have only to
consider the best means of opposing it. During an ascent much strength
is spent in the mere lift, to say nothing of the extra force needed to
prevent slipping.
At the foot we joined up again and traversed round to the ‘sheep
walk.’ This was easy to discover but hard to describe. The route bore
obliquely upwards towards the right, always well out in the open,
giving us pleasant hand-and-foot work the whole way. We reached the
top in safety, and then proceeded homewards by way of White Napes.
Mr. Haskett Smith says that the top of the easy passage bears 23° east
of north when viewed by prismatic compass from the highest point of
Great Gable. It probably means magnetic north, and the fact is of value
to benighted climbers who know which end of the compass is the north
pole.
On April 3, 1896, a new variation route was found into the upper cave
of the Oblique Chimney by Messrs. C. and A. Hopkinson and H. Campbell,
who worked up a slightly marked gully in the great wall to the left
of the sheep walk, and then, after an ascent of fifty feet, traversed
round by the left into the chimney.
CHAPTER VIII
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account