Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The hand-and-foot work begins on the right side of the recess, and
the climber makes directly up to a little pinnacle about thirty feet
above him. There is no need to back up the chimney at first. The
pinnacle offers comfortable standing-room for one only, but the leader
can manipulate the rope for the second until the latter is within
a foot or two of the platform. Then by passing a few coils of rope
round the top of the pinnacle he can make the second safe while he
effects the rather awkward passage back into the crack. Both hands
seize an excellent hold on the opposite wall, perfectly safe but a
trifle remote for a man with a short reach, and then the foothold is
quitted and the body dragged into a good jamming position. The crack
is very narrow, and extensive slipping is almost an impossibility.
It now becomes necessary to wriggle up inch by inch with slight hold
for the extremities and too much for intermediate excrescences. A
few feet higher and the chimney is at its narrowest. Here follows an
uncomfortable rearrangement of the system. The handholds have hitherto
been best on the left wall, and the climber has accordingly faced
that way. But now the holds dwindle down to nothing on that side and
others appear on the right. We may either climb out of the crack and
on to the buttress, or preferably effect a half-turn of the body and
so get to face the right wall. This is most safely accomplished by
working outwards a bit before twisting. A small stone is half jammed
in the crack and may be used for a foothold, though too insecure
for any hauling purposes. The struggling now becomes a little less
irregular. The ledges are excellent for the hands, and in a few feet
we reach the level of the floor of a little cave roofed in by a
couple of overhanging blocks. This place again is only large enough
for one cave-dweller to inhabit, and the leader has his choice of
procedure--either to run out another twelve feet before the second man
comes up, or to wait till his follower reaches the narrowest part of
the crack. To avoid the trouble of re-arranging the rope, the latter
plan is better, though it involves a little risk of peppering the crack
man with small stones that are only too willing to lower their present
level at the roof of the cave.
The last move is moderately easy. By pulling up on to the horizontal
ledge on the left buttress the loose stones are almost avoided, and
then some easy steps land the leader in safety a few yards from the
upper edge of the crags. When all are up, a traverse of about fifty
yards to the right discloses a rough but quick route down to the scree
gully and the wire fence, or the same traverse continued along the
contour-line leads to the Westmorland crags and the beginning of the
ordinary scree descent towards Gavel Neese.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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