Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The Doctor’s Chimney deserves to be popular. It is a perfectly safe
climb, and offers excellent practice for the arms. On the whole it is
probably a little easier than the Oblique Chimney, especially when
descended, for it is so narrow that there is little need to seek
footholds until the level of the pinnacle is reached. It has the
advantage over its more famous rival of being easily hit off in misty
weather; for a scree gully is then less mistakable than a rocky sheep
walk, and a wire fence than a ‘bottle-shaped’ pinnacle.
Such, then, was our digression before making for the foot of the
Central Gully. Another party of friends had comfortably ensconced
themselves in various corners on the small crag opposite the chimney,
and were interested observers of our performance. They smoked
cigarettes and offered advice freely; their day’s work was done, and
to watch others still hard at it was perfect luxury. When we emerged
panting from the top they threw away their cigarette ends and strolled
down to Wastdale for tea. It required much moral strength to refrain
from joining them, but there was the Great Central still on hand, and
that other little chimney to prospect. If it were as difficult as
report said, then we were bound to stay and climb it. So we worked
round to the end of the wire fence and looked for our gully. Its name
perhaps suggests a great gap in the mountain side, visible for miles
round, and as unavoidable by the wanderer on this side of Gable as the
Edgware Road is said to be by the Frenchman in London. But if this
be so the name is misleading. Many people fail to find the gully in
bad weather. Its entrance from below is narrow and its exit above is
ill defined. A short distance to the east of the Doctor’s Chimney the
scree-walk up the crag, that leads past the relics of the smuggler’s
inclosure, insures a safe passage to the top of the cliff. This scree
gully faces Kirkfell, and but for the usually poor light on this north
face of the mountain it might be easily recognized from that side.
Scarcely a hundred yards away from the end of the fence the narrow
opening of the Central Gully may be found; from Beckhead it appears
in profile, and is not-always manifest. Walking eastwards along the
scree beneath the crags, it is the first really obvious passage into
the heart of the mountain after leaving the Doctor’s Chimney; the easy
scree walk is not much impressed in the face, and in a mist it has
often been entirely overlooked. Even in cloudy weather the first pitch
of our gully can be discerned a few feet above us, and identified by
the buttress that partially divides it, the chock-stone in its right
branch, and the fine-looking ‘jammed-stone pinnacle’ that shows up a
little higher on the left.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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