Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The first clear account of the gully appeared in the Wastdale book: ‘In
the great gully are found two pitches near the bottom. The top part may
be varied by crossing a grass slope and joining the easy scree route,
or the climb may be continued by going straight forward. This looks
very hard, but on close inspection the difficulty entirely disappears;
for the climber is able to pass behind a square tower of rock, and in
this way to enter on the final bit of grass and rock that brings him
out at the top.’
We were a party of three, and managed comfortably with eighty feet of
rope. The first pitch was easy, what with dry rocks and warm weather.
Our guide started up the buttress that divides the gully, and at a
convenient opportunity stepped back on to the loose stones in the bed.
A few feet brought us to the second pitch, a trifle harder than the
first. Again the leader worked up a buttress on the left of the gully,
but this time well in the hollow. Near the top of the obstruction the
left leg had to take the place of the right, a good handhold above
serving to insure the safe transfer, and then a ledge could be reached
by the right foot. The body was next swung over to that side, and so to
the crest of the pitch.
Here the gully looked very attractive. On the left rose the
jammed-stone pinnacle, an easy chimney leading up to the cleft that
separates it from the mountain. Two big boulders bridge the cleft near
the crest of the little passage, the higher one offering a safe way
to the summit of the pinnacle. It is from here that the progress or
‘rake’ can be made out across to the foot of the Oblique Chimney and on
towards Stony Gully at the east end of Gable Crag.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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