Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE NEEDLE GULLY has rather a bad reputation. My personal
experience of it has not been altogether pleasant. I tried it in
January, 1893, with the enterprising classic referred to in my account
of the Oblique Chimney, and found the soft snow so troublesome in its
steepness and want of tenacity that we decided to leave the gully for
some more auspicious occasion. The opportunity came in the following
August, after an ascent of the Needle, and with it came the conviction
that in dry weather the gully possesses no interest to the climber pure
and simple, if such an anomaly exists, but that it should be visited by
those who take pleasure in rock scenery. The Eagle’s Nest ridge is a
marvellously fine sweep of clean-cut rock bounding the western wall of
the gully. The jagged outline of the Needle ridge on the eastern side
is scarcely inferior in grandeur.
We found two easy pitches to begin with, taking us to about the level
of the Needle summit. Then a vertical wall interposed itself directly
in our way. We scrambled in or near a slight cleft on our right,
using rather treacherous grass-covered ledges, and distributing our
weight over as many points of support as possible. That portion of
the pitch was only about three feet high, and then came a momentary
‘easy’ before another steep little bit of eight feet. The resting
place is just large enough for one man. At the top of the second piece
a ledge led round by the left past an awkward corner that seemed to
alarm our more substantial members by its narrowness, and then two
or three steep grass steps had to be taken directly upwards. There
we found a projecting knob forming a convenient saddle for each to
anchor as he manipulated the rope for the man below, a deep crack
offering itself in the right position for belaying the rope. A foot
or two higher, and we were able to traverse back into the bed of the
gully, and thence find an easy way up screes and short rock slopes to
the top. The climb along the ridge itself to the highest point of the
Napes was pleasantly varied. We could readily distinguish the points
of articulation of the chief buttresses, for the general angle was too
steep to disguise the contours. When close to the connecting ridge
between Napes and the Westmorland crags we bore down on to Hell’s Gate
screes and crossed over to the opposite rocks to hunt out the little
climb up to the Westmorland cairn. This was not so easy to find, and we
wasted much time in attempting an attack by some smooth slabs too high
up the scree. At last we found that the climb began in a small gully
some distance down, which bore upwards a little to the right till a
short pinnacle was reached. Then from the neck behind the pinnacle we
traversed across the face to the left for a few yards, before climbing
hand over hand to the summit ridge. It came as a surprise that the
ascent had such neatness; and we were all at the end willing enough
to indorse the favourable opinions expressed in the climbing book.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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