Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Be it remembered that the cairn at the top was built by the brothers
Westmorland of Penrith, not for the purpose of indicating the finish
of a climb, but to mark the coign of vantage for one of the finest
mountain views in the country. Remember also that proposition of a
well-known mountaineer that the view from a summit is much the same
whatever be the route taken to get there; and apply it by visiting
Westmorland cairn to look at the Napes, even if the expedition involves
no troublesome climbing.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE RIDGES OF THE GREAT NAPES
(_Face page 153_)]
CHAPTER X
_THE RIDGES OF THE GREAT NAPES_
THE NEEDLE RIDGE is usually taken from the foot of the Needle
itself. It was explored first in 1884 by Mr. Haskett Smith, who then
made a general survey without actually completing the climb. Two
years later he effected a descent of the whole route; and in 1887 Mr.
Slingsby’s party made the first strict ascent, and were emphatic in
their praise of its fine character.
The introductory few feet from the notch behind the Needle are
difficult, the problem being to climb up a steep slab of six feet or so
to the foot of a slight grass chimney that slopes upwards to the right.
Three fingers of the right hand can be inserted in a curious pocket in
the slab; rather poor foothold is all that can be found for steadying
purposes, and for the rest just enough will manifest itself to enable
the climber to cautiously drag himself up to a small ledge, and thence
to the foot of the chimney.
This takes him easily to about the level of the top of the Needle.
There a poised block is passed on the left, that used to give trouble.
I once saw my leader attempt to climb directly over it. When in the
very act of pulling himself on to its upper surface it slowly swung
round, as if pivoted at each extremity. Fortunately he was not tempted
to let go, and it readjusted itself in a firmer position without
quitting its niche. My friend led no more that day, and we afterwards
solemnly warned folks against the boulder variation. The stone is yet
there and is still insecure, but climbers pass round by the right and
then work back on to the edge of the _arête_ and up to the foot of
the vertical wall that begins the second part of the climb. It is not
unusual for the first part to take so long a time in severe weather as
to convince a prudent party that it is expedient to utilize a grass
traverse into the Needle Gully that here discloses itself on the left.
This ledge takes them safely to a point in the bed of the gully above
the chief pitch, and within a few minutes’ easy scrambling of the top.
The first part of the Needle Ridge may be neatly varied by climbing the
buttress up from the gully, or by working across to the same buttress
from the Needle notch. These variations are a little harder than the
usual climb, but both are safe in dry weather.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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